postscript

I didnt sleep well---and the room and furniture just seemed so extravagent for one person---used to fitting about 20 people in a space like that. up early out of habit--public holiday here for ascension thursday so most things closed---went looking for a place to have breakfast---finally found one and made my final new connection---a danish woman in her 50s who went the whole way--started a few days after me---we chatted over breakfast. Of course Helene and I met again---5 minutes earlier or later we would have missed each other but synchronisity seems to happen all the time on the camino. Went to the midday Pilgrims mass in the Cathedral---and was touched to hear in spanish¨¨One pilgrim from Australia who started from St Jean¨¨--there was a long list--a number started from St Jean---but 90% didnt---so a little prouder of my achievement. My feet still sore so glad to have the pack off today. Weighed myself today---lost 10 kgs---800kms seems to do the trick. Feeling good today---looking forward to Tricia arriving tomorrow---one more day here, 9 days in Barcelona, Organised tour in Turkey for 13 days then 7 days in Greece--Greek Islands before coming home on 20th June.Its been a wild ride---looking forward to meeting up with you all again and repeating stories of the Camino endlessly.Many thanks again for all your comments-emails---they have made all the difference.

Santiago

In Arzua there are 30 in the Albergue and 30 more in the village square where i sit for an hour---its as if i.ve been beamed to another country---where are all the people i.ve been travelling with---and where did THESE people come from--i eat on my own 3rd time in 4 days--only 6 times in 34 days--feeling flat. In no hurry next morning--take a break in a roadside cafe about 10---and decided that instead of going to the nearest place to Santiago--to get there in time for the Pilgrims mass on wed at 12---i would stop earlier at a place for 15 instead of 120--its an inspired choice---I get a single bed--with sheets,blankets AND towel and in a little alcove on my own---there are also 7 double bunks----also a lovely communal dinner--about 6 different nationalities---and lots of laughter---my soul is feeling much better. NEXT DAY THEY ALSO HAVE BREAKFAST and i dont leave till 8---walk steadily--meet up with susie--an Austrian girl who was the only other english speaker at a dinner a week ago---we walk together for a while---and then walk with granya for a while.About 4km out I dont know which way to go---and there is a group of 6 blind pilgrims--all with their guide dogs---and their leader who has no dog but is only 5% sighted---AND I ASK THE BLIND MAN WHICH WAY TO GO---he points left---so i go left and im reassured 1km later when i look back and they are all following me---and then I get to a major intersection and no arrows---and realise ive gone the wrong way---so i retrace my steps---and all the blind people follow me again. NOTE--Add 2km to tally. Coming into the city i wanted the Cathedral to appear in all its glory around a corner---instead i came in via a back door---about 6 other pilgrimsbut none i knew---im glad its over but no tears or euphoria---i go out to the main square--more pilgrims but no one i know--i sit in the square contemplating my next move when granya--- bless her--- appears--says theres a lunch organised with dominic and marie---and dinner later with others---suddenly the world takes on colour again---i realise how much i depend on familiar faces to sustain me in my day. I book a room where Granya is staying $90 a night--Meet Danielle,maria,Frank Marie,Dominic at lunch---hugs all round---later meet Jethro, Thomas Fritz. at 6 go looking for an internet and run into Helene--still with backpack on---just walked 40 kms---was robbed of 300E where id left her with a migraine. She was looking for a place to stay. SOOOOOOOOO really glad to be here---its definately the hardest thing physically ive ever done---its been a huge rollercoaster emotionally and spiritually---ill be processing aspects of this trip for years--its probably the best thing ive done for myself--apart from marriage. I couldnt have done it without all your support---its been wonderful and constant and generous and never let me forget i was very loved---and THAT makes a huge difference in anyones life. My advice--DO IT !!!! Have to go its 11 at night---a long day

a good day

Had dinner with a Finnish couple last night Heli and Matti---doing a 2 week camino--enjoyed a 3 course meal for $15. Up at 615 this morning and it was pouring--got ready anyway and just working out which swimming stroke I should use when it stopped completely about one minute before I stepped into it---water everywhere but none from above. Felt great walking today--in the first hour passed Pedroo --about my age from South Africa--doing a 4 week camino and Orilli --a young girl from France--doing from Longrono to Santiago---she did St Jean to Longrono 3 years ago.Stopped for a break about 1030--had a coffee and a freshly made Tortilla and a hunk of fresh crusty bread---just the bees knees---felt I was just flying after that---actually went a bit further than intended--ended up at Arzua--30km on--so I would only have 19km tomorrow--my feet so good today---the walk was spectacular--no wonder people do the last 100 kms its just so continuously beautiful---the end in sight almost---but still have 40 km to go--have to continue to stay in the now---still have the beard--a bit more substantial now--but its days are numbered--- I seem to be the only one growing one for the camino---and I.ve carried a razor all that way!!!! Have lost weight too---just about run out of holes in my belt---but feel good for it--but intend to work hard at putting it back on before I get back to Aus

a tough day

Was raining when we got up this morning---i.ve been really blessed with the weather---really glorious days---but today was not one of them---by the time I got going at 715 the rain had stopped and it looked like i was wearing all my wet weather gear for show---but about an hour into the walk there was a shower followed by another---and then it became more persistent and the wind picked up---gusting so hard at times that it would blow me a couple of steps across the road---and for a time the rain was coming from head on---i worked out that if i put my head forward enoughthen the brim of my hat would stop the rain on my face---but i could then only see 2 feet in front of me (so to speak). Great to take 5 minutes respite from the rain to catch up with Mum and Maz---Sorry you got the short straw Jo---those calls were from one of about 6 phones that didnt work today. Finally got to the outskirts of Palas de Rei and there was a brand new Albergue--great to get out of the rain and get my dripping wet things off and claim a bed----and then i realised there was no meals available and no bars ,shops, restaurants nearby---no washing machines,dryers,no internet---the place was very clean but no warmth or positive energy. For the 1st time on this journey---and despite it still pouring outside--I decided to move on---About 1km further was the town with lots of bars, shops etc--and an Albergue---when I walked in there there were about 10 people sitting around waiting to be attended to but no official in sight---a woman I knew said she was staying but ¨¨it was very basic¨¨---and it looked a cold grey place. I finally looked up my guide--would have normally done this earlier but in pouring rain it does have its problems---and I had noted that there was a 3rd Albergue in this town---SOOOOO for the 2nd time on this journey I walked out into the rain again. The 3rd Albergue was only another 100m further on---and more like im used to--a warm welcome---and small rooms --but crowded--the good ones often are---the camino is now stacked with people who have started walking in the last few days--i would say more than half of them---so there are a lot more people around--and a lot more strangers---ran into Jethro this morning in a bar--still full of beans---but has been slowed down with foot trouble--and Andres from Iceland---was doing huge distances---but was laid up for 6 days with stomach problems--finally on anti-biotics---but moving again today---walking entirely on my own again today---and content with that---i.m limping a bit on my left ankle again---its crying out for a weeks rest---i.m promising it a week starting Thursday---Love to all --your support has been so significant in getting me thus far---hopefully a few more kms tomorrow

Another beautiful day in paradise

Today was even more beautiful than yesterday---a mild spring day--walking thru woods and avenues of trees and about 10 tiny villages with cobbled streets and often sharing the narrow path with a small number of sheep or cows being ushered somewhere by their owners---and as always the beautiful wildflowers---today a big bright yellow bush like wattle predominated. and on top of all this , views to die for at every step--valleys with villages and riversand as green as green everywhere.Got to Portomarin today---but my feet are really feeling the pressure---23kms today in 6 hours but it seemed a long way--I stopped with a hour to go in a field with lush grass--unpacked and took off shoes--sox---and had a wonderful 3 course lunch. First a delicious, juicy orange. Then a cheese and tomato roll on very crusty bread that I.d saved half of from earlier in the day---then to finish off a few squares of chocolate with almonds--a great lunch in a wonderful location. Saw Danielle and Granya briefly today---otherwise quite solitary--but enjoying being on my own today.The albergue that Im in looks out over a river---stunning views--a nice place to spend a few hours. love to you all. Special XXXXXXXXXXXXX to Mum for Mothers Day---

day29 30

i ended up the only person at Portela Valcarce--STILL NO APPETITE--But order dinner anyway---get about one third thru it and feel sick--have a fever again--this time i..m freezing cold--take another 2 disprin and go to bed again at 7 and slowly warm up. Its great being the only person in the room---you can turn on the light when you get up--i..m used to doing all my preparations in the dark. FEELING BETTER THE NEXT DAY--CLimb another mountain--it rises 2000 feet in 7 km--quite challenging on rocky mountain paths but my legs seem better able to cope now---get to the top at 11 (O´´Cebriero) and push on another 12 kms---27 in total and find another quiet place to stay atFonfria where i find a single bed---on ny bed for hours in the arvo resting my feet. Dinner at 8 is communal---decide its too late for me--and then change my mind---wonderful dinner---rich hot vegetable soup---then trays of meat and potatoes--as much as you want---then sweets--and as much wine as you want---all for $14---my first meal in 3 days. Today was a beautiful days walking--up high on mountains and fantastic landscapes every minute--in the valleys below you can see fields and villages and monasterys---prettier than a painting---pushed it today again 27 kms---if i average 24 km a day i.ll finish on wednesday--but nothing is certain as ive discovered---walked with some irish girls today for 40 mins--friends of Dominic--also ran into Granya and Connie. Found a lovely place in Sarria tonight for 6e and there was a bath---I was in it so quickly---and later noticed a sign that said it was for the disabled---but figured i was disabled enough to qualify--it seems like i.m nearly there---but i have to keep remembering i still have to walk another 120kms

day 26-28

Left Rabanal early---got to the high point of the camino--where there is a place to leave something on a monument--left a photo of an angel on the pole facing all the pilgrims---was determined to have another quiet day so stopped about 130 atRiego de Ambros---A very quiet village--no other english speakers--no internet--so had to rest which was good---then at 5pm Helene walks in to stay the night--glad to see someone I can chat to, have dinner with.Next day we decide to walk together for a while at a pace that suits us both---more walking thru the mountains covered with a purple bush as far as the eye can see--we are both off colour--Helene has a migraine and I feel Queasy And dont feel like eating--we get lost coming out of Ponferrada and instead of parks and quiet suburbs we are walking on the equivalent of Parramatta road for about 12 kms in very hot weather--no intermediate stops--we have to go 30 kms to find a place to stay--I just collapsed onto the bed when I got there about 530---10 hour day---After 30 minutes I go and showerBut that takes my last remaining energy--the bar is 300-400m away---no way I can get there--I have an orange and a few almonds I..m carrying--I..m also burning up --have a high fever---have a couple of disprin and am in bed at 630 (sunset about 9)--I sleep OK and the fever goes but have gastric---the joys of the camino !!!!--Helene migraine is worse and she cant move---I get going about 730--feeling quite weak--with very little food yesterday---after 2 hours find a cafe open--the best they can offer is dry toast and cheese--so i take it. A difficult day---felt like I was dragging my feet all day---stop at 2 at la Portela de Valcarce--so far have a room for 4 to myself---and feeling like Im getting stronger---I need to be --biggest climb of Camino tomorrow---Great to make contact with Erin for her birthday---and Phil and Flis --Love to you all

day 23--25

Last i left you I was in Mazarife--Jethro invited me to the pub for one beer---4 hours later I got back to my Albergue after a few drinks and a visit to the supermarket and a communal spag bol for 10--very nice. Away at 645 next morning--Jethro was 5 min behind--could see him behind me for ages--then he disappeared---caught up later and said 3km out he remembered he left his MP3 behind---so did an extra 6kms. Went into the 1st bar I found after 3 hours--was only one there--then 2 minutes later Marie walks in---Amazing--I had wanted to say goodbye as it was her last day walking but hadnt seen her for 3 days. Then in this bar, they had a comments book for customers--have never seen that before---idly looking thru it came across a message FOR ME from Renata ¨¨hello to Chris if you see this¨¨ brought me undone once again at the miracle of connection across 10 days. Walked with Marie a couple of hours---Faced with doing 19kms or 30 kms and it was a good walking day --cool and pretty flat---felt good at 19kms but by 25kms the bottom of my feet felt like mush--nothing to do but push on one step at a time---fearing some drastic consequences--but got to Astorga with breaking down and Promised myself a shorter next day if I could still walk. Had a flash dinner at the Hotel Gaudi with Marie,Granya; dominic and 2 Finnish girls--All for 10E--a special for Pilgrims. This morning was delighted to find I could still walk --made lots of connections along the way including Anne- Marie--a German lady and Wolfgang Again and Danielle from Toulouse. The strangest was Dimitri from USA who was going the other way--and trying to do it with no money--relying on gifts of food and accommodation---stopped and chatted to him about the spiritual malaise in the world for 30 minutes and moved on. I gave him an orange I had to help him out. Stopped at next bar--Granya and Finnish girls there---Then Anne Marie turned up and told us of a man going the other way who stopped her and shared an orange with her--gave us a laugh. Staying at Rabanal for the night---Met the Spanish man for the TENTH time today---but also got an explanation--two women hes with walk the same way as us--he drives 25kms and walks back to meet them --and then turns around-and walks with them to the car..--mystery solved---a beautiful spring day today---snow covered mountains in view and beautiful wild flowers--fields of white and yellow daisys intersperced with rich red poppies---glorious.

back to reality

Yesterday wandering around Leon, Igot an instantaneous broken toe on my left foot---could hardly walk on it--I massaged it last night and hoped it would improve. Its things like this that stop you making plans or predictionsor knowing for certain you will get thru the day. Got away early this morning and toe was improved--in a dorm with 70 people in double bunks pushed next to each other--i had the next guys feet in my face---but i got lost coming out of the city--crossed the wrong bridge. Finally a council worker driving a water cart, washing the streets, gestured to me from his cabin and indicated the different direction i should go--i tentatively set off in that direction only to find him pacing me in his truck---he stayed with me for about 200 m until we got to a large roundabout and he made sure i took the right road leading off it---the kindness of strangers !!!!!!!! met Wolfgang on the way--from Germany---doing his 1st day !!!--doing a 12 day camino !! My feet stayed good today--got to Mazarife 23kms--in the last 2 kms Kelly caught up to me-and we walked together into town--she was pushing on a further 14kms. Then on the edge of town we ran into Jethro--and hes staying in the same Albergue--reminds me of Carl--lots of energy and enthusiasm---he started a week after me in Pamplona---Have another single room !!!! and a bath all for 5E Love to you all

back to reality

Confession Time

Its time to finally fess up---I´´m not on the Camino at all--When I was in Paris I heard there was cold and rain predicted for the South of France---and I saw the Cannes Film Festival was about to start so I got a train there instead--I thought that the Camino will always be there but the 2007 Film Festival is a one off--and I will stay warm and dry--which I have.I knew you were all supporting me to do the Camino and I felt I couldnt let you down so in between movies I´´d look at the weather pattern and make up a days adventure on the Camino--its tested my creative skills--which is a plus--and I´´ve met a couple of people who have walked the Camino who spoke highly of it --so I still want to do it some day. So sorry to let you all down, hope youll forgive me--have to go now--theres another movie about to start.

leon

got away at 7 today--perfect weather--quite cool and not raining---coming into big cities doesnt compare with travelling through the beautiful countryside---but my feet held up today and staying in an old monastery in the heart of the city--25km today---474 down--not that im counting---ran into kelly again at the albergue---and frank--hes still alive---he´d heard I´´d caught a bus !!!!! not yet i said--and another young aussie Jethro from Cairns--saw Helene this morning--shes taking a day off here tomorrow--briefly appealing but i´´m inclined to push on. Leon Cathedral has the most beautiful stained glass windows i´´ve seen anywhere. A bonus at the albergue---they washed and dried nearly all my clothes for 6E---$10---I was beginning to be a bit on the nose--hard to get things dry in overcast and rainy weather

the meseta

We´re crossing the Meseta---a high plain--about 800m high--a steep climb to get onto it a few days ago. A lot of people take the bus for this section because they see it as boring and featureless and long stretches without water--so you have to carry extra---I carry 1.2 litres all the time--fill up wherever i can. For me the whole landscape is beautiful---so, so green and so many different wildflowers and no hills--and for the last couple of days very overcast and not raining--perfect for walking. A lovely couple of things yesterday---a local man pulled up in his car and gave me a wrapped lolly and a buen camino---and about an hour into yesterdays walk beside the path was a table in the middle of a field under a tree with lots of goodies and a sign for pilgrims to help themselves---tea,coffee,packets of soup,muesli bars oranges, pears, vegetables,. There was also a large thermos of boiling hot water---no one in sight for miles--there was also a donation box if you wanted to donate something,. Yesterday was the coldest morning so far---about 2C---so I helped myself to a hot soup and a muesli bar--another miracle of the camino !!!!!! Got as far as Bercianos yesterday---27kms--a very good day---a communal meal last night--Marie and Helene still around and also met Kelly from Bathurst---doing 40km a day so dont expect to see her again---Carol from Canada and Connie from Germany. Never saw Frank again. After dinner communal prayers in 6 languages. Today went well till 19km mark---was intending to go 27 again but my ankle suddenly gave way on me and limped very slowly the last 2 Km intoReliegos---was hoping to get to Leon tomorrow--but its still 25 km away so Ill see how I go.