Finisterre and Muxia

I always wonder coming in to Santiago whether we will meet the people that we travelled along the Camino with---and we did---some we expected we might meet like Dennis and Robert and Reece and Ray and Pura and some surprises that we didn't expect to see again---Sylvia and Vikki andChris and Marina and Val. We had a lovely dinner on our last night there with Sylvia and Vikki and Chris and Robert who we had the closest connections with. And we saw the incense burner swing and I was in awe again---one of the wonders of the Camino. Out to Finisterre by bus---a delightful fishing village where we had a fabulous seafood dinner for $50 for 2 of us and had a picnic with Marina and Marika---met both at Astorga---at sunset out on the cape where the lighthouse is. Quite a buzz out there at sunset---followed by a 4 km walk back into town!!! Had 2 nights there and then 2 nights in Muxia---another fishing village where we have had another 2 days of resting and sleeping and going out to the church and lighthouse---a much more dramatic scene here with waves crashing onto the rocks and a 300 year old church only metres from the waves.Such a wonderful way to finish off the Camino. A lot of pilgrims---1000 this month walk to these 2 villages---another 5-6 days walk but it was totally beyond us. We struggled to walk to the bus that brought us out. Back to Santiago today and Paris tomorrow and back to Sydney next Thursday night.

Santiago

Finally reached the Cathedral in Santiago about 2 hours ago after a challenging last days walk from Arca.there are no easy days on the Camino and today was no exception. However we were blessed with fine weather--very warm in fact. Not many bars today which was surprising but we got to one after about 2 hours and they had bacon and eggs on the menu so we decided that would be a good start for our last day. A few minutes later Robert from Byron Bay walked in having wisely taken a day off on the very wet day we had. Then we ran into Dennis at the Mont de Gozo.Its only 5 kms from there but seemed to take forever but finally got to the Cathedral about 1.30pm.got a local in the square to take a picture of us when we didn't see anyone we knew and then booked into our hotel feeling pretty beat. Reception told us our room was on the 3rd floor with a stone spiral staircase the only access.One last challenge---but the room is very nice. Staying here a couple of days and then thinking of going to Finisterre and Muxia for a few days before going back to Paris for our flight on 28th. Feeling really pleased and relieved to finally get here---so grateful for all the support we have received from friends and family and from fellow pilgrims. Thank you all so much.

Day 43

Hopefully our second last day on the Camino. It was unseasonably warm this morning and the rain gear we had on quickly became stifling and as the rain held off we stripped down to summer wear.We ran into Ray and Pura that we met yesterday when I was deciding to walk off into the rain. They are from Sydney and we walked with them for an hour this morning. A conversation always makes the time and kms go quicker. Also Dietrich caught up briefly and got a lovely big hug from him.I was getting tired towards the end and suggested a stop at a bar at Santa Irene and as we walked in the door a storm broke---for about 10 minutes---a lovely bit of timing.No injuries--one day to go--it seems a bit surreal after 43 days that it's all about to end but my body will be thankful.

Day 42

Had a good night in O Coto---a lovely meal put on for Anne and I and the only other person staying---Reece who we had connected with a few days earlier. We discovered a shared interest in morning pages and changing careers. This morning we had the usual Spanish breakfast of bread and jam to fortify us for the day. We needed all the help we could get as it was pouring rain and predicted to continue all day---and for once the predictions were correct. By the time we got to Melide,we were both soaking wet from rain and sweat and my formerly waterproof boots had lost their excellent record of keeping my feet dry. As we sat under an awning outside a cafe in Melide, Anne decided on the only sensible option and get a cab the rest of the way(14kms)to Arzua. Another Aussie couple had just joined us at the cafe and decided the same thing---that there was nothing to be gained by walking 14 km in heavy rain when you are already soaking wet. For me it was a different equation---having walked every inch of 2 Caminos and 41.5 days of a third Camino, I didn't want to stop walking just because it was pouring rain---and I decided that I couldn't get any wetter so I decided to continue on. Everyone happy with their own decisions.however it is a harder day walking in the rain especially when it is reasonably heavy. Most of the route today wS dirt paths either going slightly uphill or slightly downhill---and the path are well worn from centuries of pilgrims on the track.So the track acts as a drainage system for all the water so there is nearly always a stream of water on the path---at times the path is completely covered with water. My good fortune today was catching up with 5 American women that we came across a few days ago and established a good connection.I could tell by their greetings that I was still in good standing with them so decided to travel with them for the last 5 hours---and it made all the difference to my day. We kept on breaking up into different groups of two or three and the time and kms seemed to go quicker. Finally got to Azura at 3 just as Anne was about to send out a search party but in the end it was an enjoyable day .currently have all my wet clothes draped all over our bedroom trying to dry everything g overnight ready for another day tomorrow---hopefully it will be our second last day!!!!

Contrasting days

Two days news to catch up on. The dinner a At Vilachi was very special with the hosts Gordon and Anna-Maria joining us for dinner and treating us to coffee liqueur after dessert. It probably is the nicest place we have stayed. Out early the next morning and through Portomarin at first light and ran into Robert just coming out of Portomarin. He was good company for the first couple of hours.despite predictions of rain,we had a glorious day throught delightful rolling green fields.we ran into friends Phil and Helen and Dennis at every stop and finally had lunch with them at our destination Eixere. When passing through Hospital(another one!! ) I noticed a 500m detour and an overhead bridge at a place where I nearly got run down by a car 5 years ago on a blind corner. Found another lovely place at Eixere. Our host washed and dried our clothes for a small fee. Dennis who had been walking with Phil and Helen for a few days decided he couldn't walk further with shin splints and decided to stay where we were staying. So few had his company for dinner last night, breakfast this morning and our 5 hour walk today. He's great company--a 32 yr old Dutch guy that we met on our 3rd day--it seems months ago now. It rained for our walk today--fine for when we are on streets and roads but in the gorgeous lanes covered by overhanging branches, the walking surface becomes a little river of water and mud and it takes a little more energy to make progress.We had a shortish day today---only 17 kms--- the perfect day for a short day --- though rIn is predicted for the next couple of days as well.All the people I have named in the last few blogs have now moved ahead of us---we are hoping to catch up with people we know in Santiago. Only 3 more sleeps !!!!!

The rain in Spain

The rain is coming down in Galacia---just where we are---reasonably heavy rain today.The good news is that my rain gear is keeping the rain out---but a consequence of wearing all the rain gear is a lot of sweating underneath. Still we have come through the rain and a 24 km day pretty well---still of sound body and mostly of sound mind.Last night in San Mamed and tonight in Vilacha we have stayed in small places (12beds and 8 beds) that are privately owned in tiny villages where there are no shops or cafés. Both have been just outside major centres and both have put on communal meals. These are mostly the best food you can get on the Camino and last night was no exception. We started with a huge tureen of very tasty lentil soup that would have fed 40 people. Then delicious tortillas and quiches with freshly made salads--all as usual with as much red wine as you can drink. The emphasis is on comfort food which is perfect after 7 hours of walking in the rain. Today we ran into Dennis and Phil and Helen who walked out of a cafe as Anne and I were walking past and then we met Robert 15 minutes later who was coming out of his Hostel at the moment we walked past.Amazing!! We also connected with 5 American women who started their walk today in Sarria---some happy they only have to do 100 kms and others keen to come back and do the whole 800. The end is almost in sight and some mixed feelings about stopping the process but my legs and body will be grateful that the 20+kms a day walking will be stopping for a while. I left my poles behind in a cafe today but I missed them within 5 minutes and went back and got them. I don't think I would be able to do the Camino without poles.

Camino lessons

My blog didn't get published yesterday.On the way out of Linares yesterday --- in the dark as usual-- about 7.45am, we missed an arrow leading off the path we were on and went 5-6 kms out of our way. I was encouraged in my belief that we were on the right track as we had a dozen other pilgrims with us all trying to find a yellow arrow. Well, we can't all be wrong surely!! And we wouldn't all miss seeing an arrow!! We did!!! It really knocked the stuffing out of me and turned a reasonable day of 19 kms into a daunting 25 kms. Was completely done in by the time we got to Tricastela. I had trouble getting off my bed to go to the nearby cafe for dinner which we shared with Robert from Byron Bay. However a good nights sleep restored my strength again and today we took a detour to Samos---one of my favourite days on the Camino.Not because of the monastery there which was closed but because of the beautiful walk into Samos and then out to San Mamed where we are staying. Mostly quiet country lanes covered with overhanging branches with moss covered rocks and everywhere green as green can be. Spent the whole day walking through this magical fairyland where you might have expected a hobbit to pop out of his burrow. The fact we had our second day of rain---light but persistent---didn't dampen our pleasure in the views.

Camino lessons

O'Cebreiro

Today we climbed the mountain to O'Cebreiro. Pilgrims talk about this past of the walk with some fear---some plan to avoid this part of the walk altogether and others plan to get a bus. However by the time you get this far you are generally much fitter and the walk up the mountain is quite beautiful. To help us get through the day we did a bar crawl up the mountain ---5 in all and it did help but extended our day to 8 hours---till 3.30. Met up with Robert from Byron Bay last night and ran into him again today.An interesting guy, he runs courses on the enneagram. Today's new person was Lauren, a nurse from Germany. The health of both of us still improving,which is a bit of a miracle.

Things are looking up

Amazingly my health continued to improve overnight despite the hours walking in the rain yesterday---and after raining heavily for most of the night,it was a fine day today.We ended up the only ones in the 5 bedroom house (host next door). Anne cooked a wonderful pasta and veg and ham dinner and then backed up this morning with scrambled eggs on toast.We had just got up this morning --pitch dark--when there was a knock at the door.Four Italian pilgrims had got lost and couldn't find the arrows. I went outside to direct them and they had a tiny baby in a large pram, doing its first Camino . We got into Villafranka about 10 for coffee and then decided to take the more difficult option and climb the mountain--very steep---walk 10 kms along the ridge of the mountain with spectacular views and then do a steep descent at the other end.We are staying in a little village at the bottom of the descent---Trabedo. Tomorrow we do the last major climb of our trip---the climb up to Ocebriro.

Stormy Weather

When we woke this morning it was to the sound of pouring rain---and facing our first day walking in the rain. At the same time my health has taken a downturn to the extent that I wasn't sure I could continue. Was faced with 3 choices---take a day or two to rest in Ponferrada but at the expense of our whole booked schedule and a week off to relax after Santiago,or second to get a cab for a day or two to the next booked space and give myself a rest but at the expense of my selfish, narcissistic desire to complete the whole Camino or third, to just walk and put it out there that my health will improve by walking in the rain for 7 hours and we can keep to our schedule. A no brainer really---I walked !!! I gave myself a 40% chance of completing the day, about 50% for catching a taxi along the way and 10% for ending up in hospital.however I didn't get the wobbles I had yesterday and had more energy today despite it raining about half the time. We kept on running into Dietrich in every bar we stopped at and chocolate again sued a part in getting us through the day. We ended up at valtuille---a speck on the map but we are the only ones in a large 5 bedroom home so we had our pick of the bedrooms and a big kitchen. The owner met us when we arrived and went off after raiding her veggie garden for our dinner which Anne is delighted to do with lots of ingredients. It's lovely having the place to ourselves and we will help ourselves to breakfast in the morning and then head off--depending on how I'm feeling. Each of the three options will be carefully considered over the next two or three days. We are hoping for finer weather tomorrow. Anne is firing on all 6 cylinders !!

Ponferrada

Anne and I set out separately again today. By the time I left about 30 minutes before sunrise almost everyone from Acebo had left and I had the Camino to myself---a rare thing these days. I didn't see another pilgrim for an hour and then only because he was sitting by the side of the road.he was Dietrich,a Belgian who has been living for a couple of years volunteering his labour on farms in return for his keep. We walked together for a while and then he asked me what I was doing at his age(36). I told him I was thinking about getting married and changing careers, both of which I did in the following 2 years. Nothing too profound but we talked for some time before I offered to shout him breakfast--and the first bar we came to was offering bacon and eggs and was doing a roaring trade with the Aussies,Pommies, Yanks and Irish. He later told me our conversation had helped give focus to his Camino as he said he needed to decide whether to marry his girlfriend.only 8 km to go then and I had caught up to Anne at the bar. My energy had been good till then but must have put it down briefly at the bar and someone must have nicked off with it because when I went looking for it, it was gone. Stopped for a rest by the side of the road and had an orange and some chocolate and about 40 minutes later found a bar in a small village and had a coffee and more chocolate and then we ran into a couple of pilgrims we knew (Dietrich and Suzanne) and they distracted me until we got to our Hostal. So have now offloaded half my pack to make room for a bigger supply of chocolate to get me through tomorrow.Anne has fully recovered and is only helping me eat the chocolate so I don't feel guilty eating it all on my own.

Splitting up

Anne and I noticed that on days we were not walking together that each of us seemed to have more contact with others. A single person is easier to open a conversation with---a couple or group much more difficult to penetrate. So today we decided to set off 30 minutes apart. I was well enough to walk (both legs functioning) and was reasonably energised so much so that I caught up with Anne at our first stop.She set off again ahead of me but she saw me coming at the Cruz de Ferro (where you leave a stone you have brought from home, representing leaving all your troubles behind)and I took the opportunity to leave a stone with LORNE written on it so that all our issues there will be resolved. I then took the lead. The mountain wild flowers were plentiful and covered the spectrum of colours but there was a difficult steep downward path to negotiate for about 4 kms. I had lots of opportunities to connect with people but didn't feel up to the effort today but Anne reported that she had a lovely day so we are likely to repeat the experiment .Have a room in the attic here with the ceiling sloping from 7 foot high on one side to 3 foot on the other,but it is our own room which is a blessing.A shortish day today and tomorrow(17kms both days) so that is something to be grateful for.Struggling today,tomorrow will be better.

Rabanal

We had insisted last night with our 3 words of Spanish that we wanted breakfast at "siete" or 7am but when we got down a at 7 our hostess was not in a good mood.Nothing to do with us we told ourselves until we saw a sign on the wall we had not noticed before saying breakfast was served between 8 and 10. We felt so bad then and recalled a conversation the previous night when she seemed to be trying to tell as something but we didn't know what. Now we knew. We decided to round up the bill from E53 to E60.When we gave it to her, she said No! No! No!but we were insistent .She went back into her kitchen and brought out 2 large bananas as a gift to us. In turn we gave her a bookmark with a koala on it.By her reaction you would have thought it was a priceless painting as she went over to a wall filled with other gifts and artefacts and tried to find a space for it. Good relations restored. A shortish days walking to Rabanal---17 kms. Anne did her first full day of walking for a while and is on the improve. I struggled--low energy but not connected I think to what appears to be a couple of bites that have caused a bit of swelling on the left side of my face.Just a flesh wound.lots of rest on the agenda---apart from my walking time.

Day 30

An upset stomach and dry throat yesterday had me taking a few vitamins and whatever I could lay my hands on in order to ward off this threat to my Camino. Have agreed with Anne that a broken limb will probably slow me down but not stop me but anything short of that I will just treat as a minor irritation.Walked 17 kms into Astorga this morning. At the first village , a Korean girl and I missed the turn and found ourselves 200 metres on searching for a yellow arrow--in vain. We worked our way back to the centre of the village, where I was prepared to methodically check all the intersections but she, much more practically walked into the bar and asked and the batman came out and pointed to the street where I had just spotted the arrow I had missed. I waited for her to catch up and thanked her for asking and we walked together for 40 minutes to the next village. Binnie was doing an Arts degree in Korea but loves travelling any walking so the Camino seemed the perfect choice for a Uni break.I stopped for a coffee in the next village and she went on and in the bar I met Colin and Anne from Perth who wanted to know if South had won the Grand Final. Told them I wish I knew the answer so I could get a bet on. They were walking from Leon to Santiago as they thought the whole Camino too far to walk.They may be onto something there.then walked on my own for an hour or so,very peaceful, lots of birds and lovely bushland but a rocky road which made for difficult walking.In the middle of a long 13 km stretch without bars or villages, I came across a Spaniard who lives in a little hut right beside the Camino path. He has lived there for 5 years and each day puts out a table full of fruit and nuts and olives and juices, coffee and tea. He just wants to serve the pilgrims and is perfectly to live in his little but without electricity. He had a billy on the boil if anyone wanted a hot drink. He had a wonderful, welcoming energy so I stopped and had a banana and some nuts and took my boots and sox off to give my feet a break. I really enjoyed my 20 minutes or so with him and he gave me a warm hug as I left him.made my day!As I left, a German girl, Marina, who I had seen a few times along the way,also left and we shared the last 6 kms walking into Astorga. She also had a lovely energy and made the time and kms go quickly. I met up with Anne near the Cathedral---she had got a cab in this morning and had toured all the sights of Astorga while I was walking in. We then walked on to Murias together,5 km out of Astorga where we are staying in a private home where the owner rents out a couple of rooms.Our room is delightful with lots of space and its own bathroom. Another wonderful day on the Camino.

Leon to Hospital de Orbigo

Stayed on at the Parador for their very good buffet breakfast before heading off yesterday. Met up with Val at breakfast, last seen 10 days ago with shin splints about to abandon the Camino.I had had a chat to her and said it may be that with a day or twos rest, her feet may recover. She was much heartened at the time and had 2 days off and recovered fully and now had caught up again. She kindly referred to me as her Camino angel. Back on the trail with Anne resting in Leon, I caught up with Le and David, neighbours from Fivedock. Enjoyed an hours conversation with them to the extent I missed my turn to Mazarife and had to retrace about 500 metres. They were going an alternate way.Walked on my own then for an hour or more.Coming into a tiny village I was craving a piece of fruit. I knew from the guide there was no bar in the town but thought there may be a small shop but I suspected the hope was forlorn. It was, but what I did manifest was a guy with a small table by the side of the road, giving things away and asking for a donation if they could afford it. And he had a range of fruit!!! And fresh orange juice!!! I was so grateful that I paid him twice the value of what I took off his stall. Coming out of the village, Tom from Canada caught up with me and kindly slowed down a little to my pace so that we could talk for an hour till we got to the next town. He told me he had a sister who lived in Sydney who works for Musica Viva. Found a bar at the next village and suggested Tom go on without me as he was walking faster and had much further to go.Then on the last leg to Mazarife I caught up with Linda from the US and slowed a little to her pace and talked with her for the 40 minutes it took to reach Mazarife. Got there at 1 after leaving at 8, but felt my day had been rich with connections. Anne got there at 2 by taxi after a lovely final morning exploring Leon.As usual then spent 2-3 hours resting, reading, snoozing. Went to get my washing off the line and met up with Richard and Robyn from Albury, a lovely couple doing their first Camino . Tio Pepe, the place we stayed at had a lovely outdoor space for sitting and talking and having a few drinks. It's the third time I've stayed at this place. We continued the conversation with Richard and Robyn over dinner, the usual high standard of 3 course meal and wine for E9. The hostess also gave us all a lovely, strong whiskey liqueur while Anne credits as helping cure her cold. Took off this morning and within 200 metres had linked up with my Albury friends again, a total coincidence of timing but there do seem to be a spate of "coincidences" on the Camino. We were now like old friends and I walked with them all morning to my destination at Hospital. If you had been listening in to the conversation, you would have thought we had known each other for years rather than the few actual hours since we had met.We talked about how people on the Camino seem much more open and willing to share stuff at a deeper level in a very short period of time. For me this is one of the powerful attractions. Of the Camino.

A day off!!!

The concept of a day off on the Camino is quite foreign to me---today is my first day off in three Caminos. It has always seemed to make sense to have a short day at times--maybe 8-10 kms but never a whole day off. But now that I'm settling into it(sleep in till 9 then wander down and have a leisurely breakfast of a standard that doesn't exist outside the world of 5 star hotels)and if it was not included in the price of the room, you would be tossing up whether to pay for breakfast or pay off your mortgage.lost track there. As I was saying, now that I'm easing my way into it I can see that it is a very good thing for reviving our spirits not to mention our stiff and sore muscles. We had a delightful dinner last night right opposite the Cathedral (for Leon, the equivalent of dining across from the Opera House in Sydney)except that here in Leon we dined for about one-tenth the price of the comparable Sydney meal---3 course meal and wine for about $20 a head!!!dined with Vicki and Sylvia who are continuing the walk today and doing bigger distances than Anne and I so we are unlikely to meet again,sadly. Have really enjoyed their company in a number of villages along the way and have walked with them a number of times. Also with us was Chris who has had tummy and foot problems and is spending an extra day in Leon like us hoping she will be able to walk tomorrow. This Camino, and every Camino for me, is such a rich experience on so many levels---culturally,deep friendships,profound insights,a wonderful inexpensive holiday and a challenging physical experience.