A hard day at the office Day 19 24kms--total 401kms

Up with the early risers--no idea if its 5 or 7--its dark and raining---find a cafe open--notice its 10 to 7--stop and have a coffee and croissant for breakfast---just as well---there is an 18 km stretch with no villages and its cold and windy and raining---all my warm gear and wet weather gear on--takes me 4 hours--for the last hour the rain is blowing directly into our faces--everyone just focussed on their next few steps---finally get to a village and bar---and its crowded and warm--have 2 coffees and a sandwich---albergues are 6 and 9 kms away--im heading for the 9km one--supposed to have sheets and blankets--quite an incentive--however within 5 minutes of leaving the warm, im limping again--left ankle again--limp the next 6 kms to Legidos-- and the woman offers me a single room with sheets and blankets---and a BATH--all for 10E about 16$---will miracles never cease!!!!!!!!!!!!! I luxeriate in the hot bath for at least 30 minutes---my spirits and body are renewed again. And Im delighted to be 1km over the half way mark. My ankle is sore but with a good rest will be better tomorrow

more icebergs---more lessons--more resolutions

a couple of hours after i book into the convent, I realise for the 2nd day that theres no one i know --and no one who speaks english.I should be resting my foot--instead i go looking for old faces around the town---spend nearly 2 hours looking and not liking what i´m doing--but eventually find the irish girls (going home tomorrow after their 10 days walking) and Helene---all staying at the same hostel. By the time I find them I am very clear that this is NOT serving my journey here and resolve NOT to do it again on this Camino. Its one thing to run into people ¨"accidently" as I have been doing to date , but it is another thing entirely to hire detectives to find someone. So you are all right--you told me so--but obviously I had to get the message clearly for myself. In the meantime I go to the pub with them (Marie turns up too) and have tapas and wine overlooking the square. The equivalent of Match of the day here is 3 hours televised live bullfighting---I dont think Ive ever seen anything so cruel--and have to turn away from watching it.

still going

got away about 730 from castrojeriz--hoping my foot would hold up---felt fine for 11kms where i found a bar and had a half hour break---after i started again my ankle was quite sore but i was on my way again and hobbled another 8 kms to boadilla where i had to stay---marie and helene had lunch there but decided to move on to the next town-- a further 6 kms away---but i was going nowhere.tried to stay off my foot as much as possible and that helped. about 30 pilgrims staying but no familiar faces---it makes quite a difference to me i´ve found---had a communal dinner which i quite like---opposite me was another aussie--frank---his name--not his manner--he was as introverted as me--an ex pom--chatted to a german girl--walking the camino for 4 days and then driving the rest of the way to santiago---i thought there must be an easier way to get there.
This morning I got up with the early risers at 6---paid for the usual spartan breakfast--tiny pieces of cold toast and hot coffee and was on my way about 715. Two options to stay today---at Fromista 6kms where the others had gone onto last night ---and Carrion 27kms---nothing else open in between. I had decided if I was limping or in pain at Fromista then it would be stupid to try and go another 21kms---so was hoping and praying I got beyond Fromista---and I did---foot still good---from there just one foot in front of the other about 21000 more times and hey presto I was in Carrion---booked into the monastery whereSt Francis of Assissi stayed---I dont think conditions have changed much since he stayed--pretty spartan---but the good news is that my foot feels much better after todays walk than after yesterdays---the pilgrims life come down to pretty basic ingrediants---and take just one day at a time--no point looking too far ahead. more news on Tim---has gone to the Spanish seaside and intends to come back to walk the final 100 kms. Many thanks for all the comments---very encouraged by them

icebergs ahead---but i ignore warnings

About 2 hours after my last entry 4 days ago ,I got a severe pain in the ball of my left foot. I could hardly walk---felt like a bruise through to the bone--I felt my camino could be over---at least i could have to wait a couple of days to see if it improved---it had come out of the blue but i put it down to walking a couple of hours with joyce that morning---at her pace not mine, i resolved that if i got walking again that i would only walk at my own pace--another lesson from the camino,. The foot improved a bit that night and i tentavily set out the next day with albergues at 5km ,8kms 12kms, 24kms and 28kms along the way. was ready to stop at any of them if my foot got bad again but a miracle--it had been healed and i walked 28kms to ages---tired but feet good. Tim and helene and marie(a norwegian woman i walked with for a while today) all staying at the same place, Helene provided a very noble service and gave the 3 of us a foot massage--i gave her one back. Next day off on my own about 7-- about a hour later Tim and Helene catch up to me walking together---we were going slowly down a mountain so it was easy to keep up---then we hit the flat and I SPEEDED UP!!!!!!!!!!! i so wanted to be with the 2 of them--we were getting on so well---stayed with them for the next 3 hours going at THEIR pace---my feet ok-- finally on the outskirts of Burgos I told them to go ahead---I had already declined an offer to go the last 6kms into Burgos with them by bus,--i still in the place where i want to walk all the way. they went ahead, i stopped for a rest for 25 min or so. when i got up, my left foot was sore, i was limping and i suddenly realised i[d broken the rule i´,d set in stone only 2 days before---talk about a slow learner, I limped the last 7 kms through the suburbs of Burgos--Tim and I had decided to share a room at a Hostel-- he had already got it 15e each$25 so it wasnt much but it was pretty ordinary---still a comfy bed and sheets and only 2 in the room. we got together with helene for dinner in our room--fresh bread rolls and hamand cheece and avacados etc-very nice--but my foot wasnt improving---i tell them both i cant walk with them anymore and hope my foot improves by morning. Up for a pee at 1am and i cant walk on it at all-- i hop to the toilet and back and lie awake considering my optiond--i.ll have to stay a day or 2 in burgos---there is an albergue about 200m from where we are so i can book in there--see if i can see a doctor--feels like a sprain---try to remember how long they take to come good, tim wakes at 630--tell him i cant go on---he gives me some anti-inflammitories(hes a doctor)--i give him my banana--im not going anywhere. Tim goes at 730, I,m quite depressed--i go back to bed---breathe in love,-breathe out anxiety---i do a kind of meditation--just accepting what is---eventually get up i have to move out --the foot feels a bit better---i do my camino prayers and dose myself with arnica a few times---i put my boots and pack to walk to the albergue---walking like an old man with a walker--and my foot doesnt feel too bad---theres an albergue 2km out of town---if i can get there at least im moving forward---still feeling really flat---a shout comes across the street (Peter style) its a workman on the 2nd floor of a construction site yelling Buen Camino and giving me a thumbs up with a big grin-- just what i needed-- shed a few tears---stop to buy an elastic support for my ankle--get to next albergue and the foot is still ok---another miracle--i decide to go on slowly---eventually get 13 kms to Rabe de las calzados and decide not to push my luck further---find the albergue--a private house--only 3 of us there--a motherly type who washes all my clothes and then wants to look at my feet after the shower--she puts clay all over the left foot and wraps it in gladwrap and tells me to put it up till tomorrow---and i do---apart from the best meal on the camino--a thick and hearty meat and vege soup---it all restores my spirits tremendously. When i leave the next day she kisses me on both cheeks-- a brave act considering 17 days growth---have come a further 28 kms today toCastrojeriz--feeling tired but feet good and spirits high--- have run into helene again---she tells me that tim quit the camino yesterday---about 3 hours after he left me.Feel i,ve been on an incredible emotional, physical and spiritual rollercoaster over the last 4 days---incredibly grateful that my stupidity hasnt cost me the journey ---and im still going---a shorter day tomorrow i think---love to you all

day 12 santo domingo to belorado 24kms

went to a mass in the cathedral last night--they have a chook pen in the cathedral - a long story- and then out to dinner with vigo and frankie and liz and carol (spending the night in a hotel--200 bucks a night) had to rush back at 5 to 10 --they lock the doors at 10 and let no one else in--as i was the last bed i scored the bed next to the door so every time someone got up they would brush past me to open the door and the light from outside would flood in --got only 1 hours sleep-- but grateful for a bed at all. My earliest start this morning 630am--met an american lady joyce a bit later--she had just gone an hour out of her way besause a sign had fallen off and was pointing the wrong way. fresh from my lesson a week ago i fixed the sign up to point the right way. i was pushing to keep up wiyh her and she went on --then caught her at the next town--no arrows but so workmen sent us in the right direction, stayed with her then for 2 hours but then i needed a break so she went on. did the walk today in 6 hours choice of 3 places to stay--always a judgment call--whats written in the guides--what people tell you. walked in and welcomed by helene who i hadnt seen for a few days---its great to see a friendly face in a strange town---later tim turned up--offloading his pack did the trick for him. quiet afternoon now catching up with washing and diary and resting for the day--days ahead. thanks for all your comments--hello linda

the spanish man

about an hour or so after i left villamayor de montjardin, i passed a peasant spanish man coming towards me. he warmly greeted me with a buenas dias on his way past. the next day about 9 am i passed him again another greeting. the next day ,a further 20 kms on about 2 hours into the walk i pass him again--still going the opposite way to me. how weird is this spoke to bruce the scotsman about it and he had noticed him too. yesterday i couldnt believe my eyes--about 2 hours into the walkand now 60kms from where i first saw him, here he was again. one of the mysteries of the camino---i decided that if i saw him today i would ask him if he spoke english--- i suspect not. i didnt see him today

the best laid plans

got away from ventosa at 7--just before dawn ..my favourite time of day---was looking at 15kms or 24kms--so decided to up the ante to 24---no bar open in first village at 9--so had some almonds and chocolate---the breakfast of champions---got to next village at 11 (15kms) and a bar open so had a huge bread roll and coffee and 30 minute break then headed off for last 9 kms--was getting really hot--put sunscreen on and my water almost ran out--however finally after another 3 hours, staggered into cirinuela--then about 1.5 kms walking through town--ready to collapse--couldnt see the algergue anywhere--they are usually really well signposted--finally pulled up a local---albergue peregrinos????? i asked---no no no she said---there was a bar nearby---decided she may not have known or understood---and i needed something to eat anyway-- so ate and had coffee and then asked again---same answer --no--go to santo domingo. it was another 6 kms awaydoesnt sound far --took me another 1 hr 40 min to get there--had refilled water in wash room--should have been 2 places to stay here--1st wasnt answering the door bell so down to the 2nd--5 pilgrims in waiting room --a german told me that i.d just missed the last bed---was still processing that when the official came back and said i had the last bed--praise the lord---tim and vico and frankie all here--tims feet bad --may have to finish his walk here-willwait a couple of days ans see---love to all

longrono-ventosa 20km

got an early start out of longrono--in a short sleeve shirt as usual--everyone else rugged up as usual--but not feeling cold--then saw a flashing sign--6.56 10c--and i realised why everyone was rugged up--after about 40 minutes when my walking didnt warm me up i put my fleece on--for the next 90 minutes. for the 1st time got to a village with an open bar for breakfast--about 930 coffee and large bread roll with ham and cheese--great, as i was leaving so were another couple so fell in with them--we were going same pace-- they were aussies from s a vigo and frankie--walked with them for 2 hours and really enjoyed it-- i got to 20km and stopped--they went on another 9kms--i decided too far for me---stayed in a nice place in ventosa--grabbed a bottom bunk as usual--no ladders or steps to get up either---4 hours later a big german guy in the bunk above pointed to my bed and pulled up his shirt and showed me all his war wounds--he obviously could see that i was superfit and could leap 6 feet in a single boundso i took that as a compliment and swapped him beds, out to dinner with vera the aussie and a scotsman- good company

answers

you ask the tough questions Jo--most of the time you cant see anyone ahead or behind you--maybe 60%of the time--so you can just go next to the path. for more serious tasks, its mostly the alberquesat night-morning--or a bar in the village if you can find one-- i couldnt today and just had to hang on-- a forest would have been handy but none available. No medications used except stuff for feet and muscles which i use every day. have left nothing behind i want. my spanish is terrible--usually point or say food? bed?--one spanish word at a time-though i´m good on the buenos dias and nearly everyone responds. lessons everyday mostly about my own judgments or prejudices--you have lots of time to reflect on decisions--judgments you make--its physically harder than i imagined--every day is difficult and exhausting--still waiting for that to improve as everyone says it does. and i imagine if anyone thinks theyre my conscience, maybe he should have a look at his own--or do the camino himself!!!!!!!!

Day 9 to Longrono 20km

Feeling good today for about 4 hours--terrain good but my legs got really tired for the last hour--couldnt have gone much further.STILL WITH ENGLISH IRISH GERMAN LADIES--THE MEN MOVE FASTER THAN ME MADE A COUPLE OF EGG SANDWICHES FOR MYSELF TODAY--DELICIOUS will just have to keep doing 20 km a day until my stamina improves--thought i´d be doing more miles per day by now but just cant do it at the moment--the second wind must be about to kick in. have met a nice aussie lady from hobart---made a few of us a cuppa this arvo--shes doing 10 km a day- thats a good pace love to all

day 8 to torres del rio 19 kms

woke up feeling much better despite a nagging ache in right shoulder--still there but seems to disappear when i throw the backpack on. Stayed with dutch evangelical group last night--- did grace before a wonderful home cooked meal and then gave us all a copy of St Johns Gospel (James brother) in our own language. Breakfast at 7 was great too--fresh hot bread and cheese ,ham,jam,muesli ,drinks. Left well fortified at 730. Spectacular sunrise--lovely morning Got to Los Arcos at 1015. 20 minutes thru town then stopped for break--boots sox off Had half packet of cashews, an orange and bit of chocolate. Day got very hot after that 33 C !!!!! Another 2 hours walking to Torres del Rio---Tim went past---going on to Viana. Found a nice Albrgue here as did Germans and Liz and Carol and mostly other French, Germans and Italians. No bar or restaurant here so Carol Liz and i bought eggs tomatoes cheese bread butter from tiny shop and Carol whipped up an omlette Great.Havent shaved since Oz Feels Ok from my side of the face but I´m avoiding mirrors. Another 20 km tomorrow I hope.. love you all

short day

Not a good day--woke up depressed--had decided on a short day only 8 kms to stay in a place that looked and give my body a rest--so got out of bed later--left later--stopped after an hour and wrote for 40 minutes--walking lovely to villamayor de montjardin--decided to climb to ruins there but they were locked up. came good with wonderful food, friends showing up german ladies and an aussie Tim

day 6 obanos to estella 26km

Seemed to be first awake again and ready to go. Said my farewells to contacts--very brief--see you on the trail---i´m headed for estella--maybe. You cant ever be too sure where you will end up--and we dont discuss where we will stay in estella--if we get there--there are 3 pilgrim places there--and hotels etc. Got going at 730 --a tough little uphill to start the day but not as hilly as previous days---stopped for a breather and had half my cashews after a couple of hours---finally after 4 hours walking (Gerard the Frenchman passed me and later to my surprise so did the Irish lass Katrina. I thought she´d be way ahead of me but she had an extra day in Pamplona) I came across a bar inLorca.They had a special on-- a bread roll and a beer for 3E ($5) so I snapped that up--and they had a free internet so I put yesterdays doings on there--Obanos had no internet--and had another bread roll--egg and potato--very nice. Must have been there for an hour--felt pretty refreshed so pushed on--finally got to Estella just as I caught up with Isabelle--girl from Sweden who is going to Santiago--did St j to Ron in one day. She decided to stay at the Municipal Alberque which we came to first. I had made a note that Joyce Rupp had said it was very crowded and ordinary so had decided to push on to one that was 1.6km further on--with no guarantee that there will be a vacancy-- I would have had to retrace my steps if full---was counting on the fact that it was further so more likely people would stay at the first place (120 beds) than the 2nd (28 beds). My hunch paid off and I got a non-bunk bed--there were only 8 of them and 2 left. Katrina is staying here but I suspect the other contacts are staying at the larger hostel if they made it this far. my longest distance--but I´m also aware I need to average todays kms. And I´m thinking of having a shorter day tomorrow. Backpack has felt uncomfortable for last 2 days--but not as worried about it today

pamplona to orbanos

the german ladies got in late last night---on of them had collapsed on the trail today(lack of water they think) she eventually came around and came on slowly. I was lying awake again waiting for some movement so i could get going --it was raining--still dark when the volunteer opened the door and said breakfast was on --bread , butter, jam,,tea, coffee--free---they had a donation box a great and welcome service--got going about 815--went via cathedral but closed for another 2 hours so headed off---quite easy going thru the city and suburbs and i felt good---then across fields and hills gradually going up and up--about 25% of it thru mud--vey slow going but spectacular landscape up towards huge windmills---must have been middayish when i reached the top --found a stone wall to sit on and took off boots , sox and backpacks and had the only food i was carrying--half of a tiny packet of raisins that i´d bought at london airport--its amazing how much you appreciate something if its all you have. took 20 minutes there and then headed down the otherside--a steep descentwith lots of smooth river stones very slow and tricky---enentually got to a little village with a bar --and had the works --3 courses--20 bucks--about 40 minutes there and then about an hours walk to Obanos--thought i may get further today but i was worn out with the up and downs and the mud. booked in --only 2 others there-- Helene the danish woman from 3rd day and Yens who took me for a meal yesterday--amazing---later the 2 german ladies turned up --they had missed an arrow today and gone an hour extra. I didnt want dinner after my hugh lunch but went to the shop and got and apple and nutty chocolate--healthy dinner---plus an orange and banana for breakfast and a packet of cashews for emergencies. it was a bit cold no blankets wore my warm coat in the sleeping bag. feet still good--leg muscles quite sore. spirits very high.love you all. thanks for comments.

pamplona

last night in zubiri---8 of us in a small room--4 double bunks. went to mass about 3 doors down and joined in the spanish hymns---after another pilgrim who i´d signed a peace with invited me to the local bar for a beer---i thought maybe my purpose here may be to learn how to get back on the grog---have been drinking everyday---he is danish,67,and has done parts of the camino before-- is here for 2 weeks this time to see how far he gets. then we joined gerard the frenchman doing the whole camino for the first time, for a meal. the equivalent of the counter lunch in spain is the menu del dia---3 courses and wine for 7-10 euros---11-17 dollars--pretty good value--basic food but they dont give you a glass of wine, they give you a bottle......up at 630 this morning and through all the rituals--packing the sleeping bag up,putting all the clean clothes in their plastic bags,giving my muscles a rub and my feet a massage,looking up the guide book to get a sense of where i´m headed today---places i might stop if things are going well and an earlier place to stop if i.m tired. i decided pamplona was my limit if things were going well---was the first out of the refuge about 7.20--our first fine day---had a banana and orange for breakfast--had a break after 1.5 hours--unloaded my packs,boots off and had a muesli barand an apple----all bush paths today and still quite muddy in places--your boots go about 1 inch into the mud or more--and still a lot of up and downhill. whil i was resting a young guy came along---i said buenos dias and then asked espangnol no german told him i was australian and he started speaking english told me he was a mad surfer. asked him how far he was going. he wasnt sure--he´d run out of water--so i gave him half of mine--he was very grateful--promised to pay me back and he was off. he was the only one i.d seen all morning. then an old guy --local--about 70 came past and stopped to chat. i think he asked me how i was ,where i was going and wished me well on my journey--a nice moment in the day. i stopped again about 2 hours later on a hillside overlooking a beautiful valley and a fast flowing river a 100metre sheer drop below--again packs off and shoes off--there about 20 minutes taking it all in and ate a packet of cashews---is this too much detail---about 10 pilgrims went past me including 2 who knew and greeted me--helene my first contact on the track and gerard the frenchman from last night--a good feeling. was pretty tired by nowbut kept on plugging on. then i came across quite a swampy area---was following 3 women who had passed me---and a local was yelling out to them they were going the wrong way and directed them away from where the arrow was pointing---i followed them and 5 minutes later got confirmation we were on the right track with another arrow---but i was plagued with guilt for miles later that i should have gone back and righted the wrong arrow as others were likely to be misled. eventually i had to decide to either go back several kms or let it go---i plodded on---through the suburbs of pamplona and then suddenly after forever walking---6 hour today i was there-- a delightful new refuge--4 in a room and a bath--only 3 ft long but it was such luxery--an hour later yens turned up and we had a late lunch together.haven´t looked at tomorrow yet--living in the now. love to you all

connections

had 2 connections today--my first on the track. a danish lady caught up to me and we walked together for 20 minutes or so. she is doing her 5th camino in 5 years after her daughter was killed in a car accident in spain 5 years ago. when we came to a hill i slowed to a crawl and she was off. 2 hours later an irish lass about 30 caught up to me---i dont pass anybody-----and stayed chatting while we walked for 45 minutes till she caughtup with friends met yesterday---they waitedfor her ---we solved all the problems of the world

3rd day 22km

lights on at 6 and got going in the near dark and rain at 7. big decision this morning--had an extra heavy coat for the cold but its not cold enough and too heavy to carry 1kg--so left it behind. was just going 12 km today but there at 1030 and feeling good so came onto zubiri---last 10 km was through a lot of muddy paddocks--pretty heavy going---was buggered by the time i got to zubiri at 2---7 hours walking. booked into refuge free internetso i thought id try again---using capitals took me out. im sure everyone else is waiting feeling graet now after feed and shower. cant access email at this stage but can read your comments many thanks for those much love

2nd day

2nd day 13k yesterday 12 today to roncesvalles. left after toast and muffin breakfast at 9 --they laughed when i said i wanted breakfast at 7. was raining but not really cold ---first 2 hours glorious scenery---walking mostly beside or above wild mountain streams. then the path started uphill and went up and up ---one half foot in front of the other---frequent stops to catch my breath get some energy back--a lot of it through mud---only saw one other person--an extrovert frenchman--talked to me for 5 minutes---who knows what he said. finally at roncesvalles 4.5 hours later. had lunch at pub then found an internet---anxious for some contact--i couldnt log in my password wasnt working on my blog ac or my email--spent an hour and 3 euros --very frustrating--and all the sites in spanish---why wasnt i told---i realised this was a divine intervention but i wasnt ready for it --felt very flat and alone--booked into refuge 100 beds 50 bunksin lots of 4 so you hane someone lying beside you but they had warm showers pilgrim mass at 8 four priests read out all the nationalities i was the only aussie.two german women ive passed a few times invited me for a glass of wine---book of messages at the refuge one there from renata directed to me --burst into tears at the connection

finally

set off from st jean at midday--the last one out of town--trying to slow myself down---beautiful fine day--thanks jo---road very clearly marked through farmland---stopped after 2 hours and took boots off and massaged feet and had a mueslibar---just loved every moment.stayed in valcarlos--a hotel--no refuge there so my own bath---first change of clothes for 3 days---washed everything in sink--feel just great to be on the way

The Power of Now

Still 9 hours till I leave Sydney and already my first major awareness/awakening. Spent some time yesterday getting my anxiety levels up by looking up the forecasts in St Jean Pied de Port, Valcarlos and Roncesvalles for next Thursday and Friday ---first 2 days on the trail----plenty to get anxious about --- but what a waste of energy about something that may or may not happen. I probably spend about 90% of my time in the past or the future and this walk is a great opportunity to spend more time in the present.

Preparing to leave

Only 4 sleeps to go till I fly out to Paris. Was up at 3.45 am this morning and went on a 24 km walk with my backpack. Took my time 5.25 hours. Tested out my raingear - got a bit wet but then realised I had my pockets unzipped. Otherwise feeling good at the end of the walk. Have just found out theres been a big snowfall in the Pyranees-- Max of 8 degrees C so I'm throwing in an extra warm coat---will donate it to the Spanish Vinnies when the weather warms up.