postscript

I didnt sleep well---and the room and furniture just seemed so extravagent for one person---used to fitting about 20 people in a space like that. up early out of habit--public holiday here for ascension thursday so most things closed---went looking for a place to have breakfast---finally found one and made my final new connection---a danish woman in her 50s who went the whole way--started a few days after me---we chatted over breakfast. Of course Helene and I met again---5 minutes earlier or later we would have missed each other but synchronisity seems to happen all the time on the camino. Went to the midday Pilgrims mass in the Cathedral---and was touched to hear in spanish¨¨One pilgrim from Australia who started from St Jean¨¨--there was a long list--a number started from St Jean---but 90% didnt---so a little prouder of my achievement. My feet still sore so glad to have the pack off today. Weighed myself today---lost 10 kgs---800kms seems to do the trick. Feeling good today---looking forward to Tricia arriving tomorrow---one more day here, 9 days in Barcelona, Organised tour in Turkey for 13 days then 7 days in Greece--Greek Islands before coming home on 20th June.Its been a wild ride---looking forward to meeting up with you all again and repeating stories of the Camino endlessly.Many thanks again for all your comments-emails---they have made all the difference.

Santiago

In Arzua there are 30 in the Albergue and 30 more in the village square where i sit for an hour---its as if i.ve been beamed to another country---where are all the people i.ve been travelling with---and where did THESE people come from--i eat on my own 3rd time in 4 days--only 6 times in 34 days--feeling flat. In no hurry next morning--take a break in a roadside cafe about 10---and decided that instead of going to the nearest place to Santiago--to get there in time for the Pilgrims mass on wed at 12---i would stop earlier at a place for 15 instead of 120--its an inspired choice---I get a single bed--with sheets,blankets AND towel and in a little alcove on my own---there are also 7 double bunks----also a lovely communal dinner--about 6 different nationalities---and lots of laughter---my soul is feeling much better. NEXT DAY THEY ALSO HAVE BREAKFAST and i dont leave till 8---walk steadily--meet up with susie--an Austrian girl who was the only other english speaker at a dinner a week ago---we walk together for a while---and then walk with granya for a while.About 4km out I dont know which way to go---and there is a group of 6 blind pilgrims--all with their guide dogs---and their leader who has no dog but is only 5% sighted---AND I ASK THE BLIND MAN WHICH WAY TO GO---he points left---so i go left and im reassured 1km later when i look back and they are all following me---and then I get to a major intersection and no arrows---and realise ive gone the wrong way---so i retrace my steps---and all the blind people follow me again. NOTE--Add 2km to tally. Coming into the city i wanted the Cathedral to appear in all its glory around a corner---instead i came in via a back door---about 6 other pilgrimsbut none i knew---im glad its over but no tears or euphoria---i go out to the main square--more pilgrims but no one i know--i sit in the square contemplating my next move when granya--- bless her--- appears--says theres a lunch organised with dominic and marie---and dinner later with others---suddenly the world takes on colour again---i realise how much i depend on familiar faces to sustain me in my day. I book a room where Granya is staying $90 a night--Meet Danielle,maria,Frank Marie,Dominic at lunch---hugs all round---later meet Jethro, Thomas Fritz. at 6 go looking for an internet and run into Helene--still with backpack on---just walked 40 kms---was robbed of 300E where id left her with a migraine. She was looking for a place to stay. SOOOOOOOOO really glad to be here---its definately the hardest thing physically ive ever done---its been a huge rollercoaster emotionally and spiritually---ill be processing aspects of this trip for years--its probably the best thing ive done for myself--apart from marriage. I couldnt have done it without all your support---its been wonderful and constant and generous and never let me forget i was very loved---and THAT makes a huge difference in anyones life. My advice--DO IT !!!! Have to go its 11 at night---a long day

a good day

Had dinner with a Finnish couple last night Heli and Matti---doing a 2 week camino--enjoyed a 3 course meal for $15. Up at 615 this morning and it was pouring--got ready anyway and just working out which swimming stroke I should use when it stopped completely about one minute before I stepped into it---water everywhere but none from above. Felt great walking today--in the first hour passed Pedroo --about my age from South Africa--doing a 4 week camino and Orilli --a young girl from France--doing from Longrono to Santiago---she did St Jean to Longrono 3 years ago.Stopped for a break about 1030--had a coffee and a freshly made Tortilla and a hunk of fresh crusty bread---just the bees knees---felt I was just flying after that---actually went a bit further than intended--ended up at Arzua--30km on--so I would only have 19km tomorrow--my feet so good today---the walk was spectacular--no wonder people do the last 100 kms its just so continuously beautiful---the end in sight almost---but still have 40 km to go--have to continue to stay in the now---still have the beard--a bit more substantial now--but its days are numbered--- I seem to be the only one growing one for the camino---and I.ve carried a razor all that way!!!! Have lost weight too---just about run out of holes in my belt---but feel good for it--but intend to work hard at putting it back on before I get back to Aus

a tough day

Was raining when we got up this morning---i.ve been really blessed with the weather---really glorious days---but today was not one of them---by the time I got going at 715 the rain had stopped and it looked like i was wearing all my wet weather gear for show---but about an hour into the walk there was a shower followed by another---and then it became more persistent and the wind picked up---gusting so hard at times that it would blow me a couple of steps across the road---and for a time the rain was coming from head on---i worked out that if i put my head forward enoughthen the brim of my hat would stop the rain on my face---but i could then only see 2 feet in front of me (so to speak). Great to take 5 minutes respite from the rain to catch up with Mum and Maz---Sorry you got the short straw Jo---those calls were from one of about 6 phones that didnt work today. Finally got to the outskirts of Palas de Rei and there was a brand new Albergue--great to get out of the rain and get my dripping wet things off and claim a bed----and then i realised there was no meals available and no bars ,shops, restaurants nearby---no washing machines,dryers,no internet---the place was very clean but no warmth or positive energy. For the 1st time on this journey---and despite it still pouring outside--I decided to move on---About 1km further was the town with lots of bars, shops etc--and an Albergue---when I walked in there there were about 10 people sitting around waiting to be attended to but no official in sight---a woman I knew said she was staying but ¨¨it was very basic¨¨---and it looked a cold grey place. I finally looked up my guide--would have normally done this earlier but in pouring rain it does have its problems---and I had noted that there was a 3rd Albergue in this town---SOOOOO for the 2nd time on this journey I walked out into the rain again. The 3rd Albergue was only another 100m further on---and more like im used to--a warm welcome---and small rooms --but crowded--the good ones often are---the camino is now stacked with people who have started walking in the last few days--i would say more than half of them---so there are a lot more people around--and a lot more strangers---ran into Jethro this morning in a bar--still full of beans---but has been slowed down with foot trouble--and Andres from Iceland---was doing huge distances---but was laid up for 6 days with stomach problems--finally on anti-biotics---but moving again today---walking entirely on my own again today---and content with that---i.m limping a bit on my left ankle again---its crying out for a weeks rest---i.m promising it a week starting Thursday---Love to all --your support has been so significant in getting me thus far---hopefully a few more kms tomorrow

Another beautiful day in paradise

Today was even more beautiful than yesterday---a mild spring day--walking thru woods and avenues of trees and about 10 tiny villages with cobbled streets and often sharing the narrow path with a small number of sheep or cows being ushered somewhere by their owners---and as always the beautiful wildflowers---today a big bright yellow bush like wattle predominated. and on top of all this , views to die for at every step--valleys with villages and riversand as green as green everywhere.Got to Portomarin today---but my feet are really feeling the pressure---23kms today in 6 hours but it seemed a long way--I stopped with a hour to go in a field with lush grass--unpacked and took off shoes--sox---and had a wonderful 3 course lunch. First a delicious, juicy orange. Then a cheese and tomato roll on very crusty bread that I.d saved half of from earlier in the day---then to finish off a few squares of chocolate with almonds--a great lunch in a wonderful location. Saw Danielle and Granya briefly today---otherwise quite solitary--but enjoying being on my own today.The albergue that Im in looks out over a river---stunning views--a nice place to spend a few hours. love to you all. Special XXXXXXXXXXXXX to Mum for Mothers Day---

day29 30

i ended up the only person at Portela Valcarce--STILL NO APPETITE--But order dinner anyway---get about one third thru it and feel sick--have a fever again--this time i..m freezing cold--take another 2 disprin and go to bed again at 7 and slowly warm up. Its great being the only person in the room---you can turn on the light when you get up--i..m used to doing all my preparations in the dark. FEELING BETTER THE NEXT DAY--CLimb another mountain--it rises 2000 feet in 7 km--quite challenging on rocky mountain paths but my legs seem better able to cope now---get to the top at 11 (O´´Cebriero) and push on another 12 kms---27 in total and find another quiet place to stay atFonfria where i find a single bed---on ny bed for hours in the arvo resting my feet. Dinner at 8 is communal---decide its too late for me--and then change my mind---wonderful dinner---rich hot vegetable soup---then trays of meat and potatoes--as much as you want---then sweets--and as much wine as you want---all for $14---my first meal in 3 days. Today was a beautiful days walking--up high on mountains and fantastic landscapes every minute--in the valleys below you can see fields and villages and monasterys---prettier than a painting---pushed it today again 27 kms---if i average 24 km a day i.ll finish on wednesday--but nothing is certain as ive discovered---walked with some irish girls today for 40 mins--friends of Dominic--also ran into Granya and Connie. Found a lovely place in Sarria tonight for 6e and there was a bath---I was in it so quickly---and later noticed a sign that said it was for the disabled---but figured i was disabled enough to qualify--it seems like i.m nearly there---but i have to keep remembering i still have to walk another 120kms

day 26-28

Left Rabanal early---got to the high point of the camino--where there is a place to leave something on a monument--left a photo of an angel on the pole facing all the pilgrims---was determined to have another quiet day so stopped about 130 atRiego de Ambros---A very quiet village--no other english speakers--no internet--so had to rest which was good---then at 5pm Helene walks in to stay the night--glad to see someone I can chat to, have dinner with.Next day we decide to walk together for a while at a pace that suits us both---more walking thru the mountains covered with a purple bush as far as the eye can see--we are both off colour--Helene has a migraine and I feel Queasy And dont feel like eating--we get lost coming out of Ponferrada and instead of parks and quiet suburbs we are walking on the equivalent of Parramatta road for about 12 kms in very hot weather--no intermediate stops--we have to go 30 kms to find a place to stay--I just collapsed onto the bed when I got there about 530---10 hour day---After 30 minutes I go and showerBut that takes my last remaining energy--the bar is 300-400m away---no way I can get there--I have an orange and a few almonds I..m carrying--I..m also burning up --have a high fever---have a couple of disprin and am in bed at 630 (sunset about 9)--I sleep OK and the fever goes but have gastric---the joys of the camino !!!!--Helene migraine is worse and she cant move---I get going about 730--feeling quite weak--with very little food yesterday---after 2 hours find a cafe open--the best they can offer is dry toast and cheese--so i take it. A difficult day---felt like I was dragging my feet all day---stop at 2 at la Portela de Valcarce--so far have a room for 4 to myself---and feeling like Im getting stronger---I need to be --biggest climb of Camino tomorrow---Great to make contact with Erin for her birthday---and Phil and Flis --Love to you all

day 23--25

Last i left you I was in Mazarife--Jethro invited me to the pub for one beer---4 hours later I got back to my Albergue after a few drinks and a visit to the supermarket and a communal spag bol for 10--very nice. Away at 645 next morning--Jethro was 5 min behind--could see him behind me for ages--then he disappeared---caught up later and said 3km out he remembered he left his MP3 behind---so did an extra 6kms. Went into the 1st bar I found after 3 hours--was only one there--then 2 minutes later Marie walks in---Amazing--I had wanted to say goodbye as it was her last day walking but hadnt seen her for 3 days. Then in this bar, they had a comments book for customers--have never seen that before---idly looking thru it came across a message FOR ME from Renata ¨¨hello to Chris if you see this¨¨ brought me undone once again at the miracle of connection across 10 days. Walked with Marie a couple of hours---Faced with doing 19kms or 30 kms and it was a good walking day --cool and pretty flat---felt good at 19kms but by 25kms the bottom of my feet felt like mush--nothing to do but push on one step at a time---fearing some drastic consequences--but got to Astorga with breaking down and Promised myself a shorter next day if I could still walk. Had a flash dinner at the Hotel Gaudi with Marie,Granya; dominic and 2 Finnish girls--All for 10E--a special for Pilgrims. This morning was delighted to find I could still walk --made lots of connections along the way including Anne- Marie--a German lady and Wolfgang Again and Danielle from Toulouse. The strangest was Dimitri from USA who was going the other way--and trying to do it with no money--relying on gifts of food and accommodation---stopped and chatted to him about the spiritual malaise in the world for 30 minutes and moved on. I gave him an orange I had to help him out. Stopped at next bar--Granya and Finnish girls there---Then Anne Marie turned up and told us of a man going the other way who stopped her and shared an orange with her--gave us a laugh. Staying at Rabanal for the night---Met the Spanish man for the TENTH time today---but also got an explanation--two women hes with walk the same way as us--he drives 25kms and walks back to meet them --and then turns around-and walks with them to the car..--mystery solved---a beautiful spring day today---snow covered mountains in view and beautiful wild flowers--fields of white and yellow daisys intersperced with rich red poppies---glorious.

back to reality

Yesterday wandering around Leon, Igot an instantaneous broken toe on my left foot---could hardly walk on it--I massaged it last night and hoped it would improve. Its things like this that stop you making plans or predictionsor knowing for certain you will get thru the day. Got away early this morning and toe was improved--in a dorm with 70 people in double bunks pushed next to each other--i had the next guys feet in my face---but i got lost coming out of the city--crossed the wrong bridge. Finally a council worker driving a water cart, washing the streets, gestured to me from his cabin and indicated the different direction i should go--i tentatively set off in that direction only to find him pacing me in his truck---he stayed with me for about 200 m until we got to a large roundabout and he made sure i took the right road leading off it---the kindness of strangers !!!!!!!! met Wolfgang on the way--from Germany---doing his 1st day !!!--doing a 12 day camino !! My feet stayed good today--got to Mazarife 23kms--in the last 2 kms Kelly caught up to me-and we walked together into town--she was pushing on a further 14kms. Then on the edge of town we ran into Jethro--and hes staying in the same Albergue--reminds me of Carl--lots of energy and enthusiasm---he started a week after me in Pamplona---Have another single room !!!! and a bath all for 5E Love to you all

back to reality

Confession Time

Its time to finally fess up---I´´m not on the Camino at all--When I was in Paris I heard there was cold and rain predicted for the South of France---and I saw the Cannes Film Festival was about to start so I got a train there instead--I thought that the Camino will always be there but the 2007 Film Festival is a one off--and I will stay warm and dry--which I have.I knew you were all supporting me to do the Camino and I felt I couldnt let you down so in between movies I´´d look at the weather pattern and make up a days adventure on the Camino--its tested my creative skills--which is a plus--and I´´ve met a couple of people who have walked the Camino who spoke highly of it --so I still want to do it some day. So sorry to let you all down, hope youll forgive me--have to go now--theres another movie about to start.

leon

got away at 7 today--perfect weather--quite cool and not raining---coming into big cities doesnt compare with travelling through the beautiful countryside---but my feet held up today and staying in an old monastery in the heart of the city--25km today---474 down--not that im counting---ran into kelly again at the albergue---and frank--hes still alive---he´d heard I´´d caught a bus !!!!! not yet i said--and another young aussie Jethro from Cairns--saw Helene this morning--shes taking a day off here tomorrow--briefly appealing but i´´m inclined to push on. Leon Cathedral has the most beautiful stained glass windows i´´ve seen anywhere. A bonus at the albergue---they washed and dried nearly all my clothes for 6E---$10---I was beginning to be a bit on the nose--hard to get things dry in overcast and rainy weather

the meseta

We´re crossing the Meseta---a high plain--about 800m high--a steep climb to get onto it a few days ago. A lot of people take the bus for this section because they see it as boring and featureless and long stretches without water--so you have to carry extra---I carry 1.2 litres all the time--fill up wherever i can. For me the whole landscape is beautiful---so, so green and so many different wildflowers and no hills--and for the last couple of days very overcast and not raining--perfect for walking. A lovely couple of things yesterday---a local man pulled up in his car and gave me a wrapped lolly and a buen camino---and about an hour into yesterdays walk beside the path was a table in the middle of a field under a tree with lots of goodies and a sign for pilgrims to help themselves---tea,coffee,packets of soup,muesli bars oranges, pears, vegetables,. There was also a large thermos of boiling hot water---no one in sight for miles--there was also a donation box if you wanted to donate something,. Yesterday was the coldest morning so far---about 2C---so I helped myself to a hot soup and a muesli bar--another miracle of the camino !!!!!! Got as far as Bercianos yesterday---27kms--a very good day---a communal meal last night--Marie and Helene still around and also met Kelly from Bathurst---doing 40km a day so dont expect to see her again---Carol from Canada and Connie from Germany. Never saw Frank again. After dinner communal prayers in 6 languages. Today went well till 19km mark---was intending to go 27 again but my ankle suddenly gave way on me and limped very slowly the last 2 Km intoReliegos---was hoping to get to Leon tomorrow--but its still 25 km away so Ill see how I go.

A hard day at the office Day 19 24kms--total 401kms

Up with the early risers--no idea if its 5 or 7--its dark and raining---find a cafe open--notice its 10 to 7--stop and have a coffee and croissant for breakfast---just as well---there is an 18 km stretch with no villages and its cold and windy and raining---all my warm gear and wet weather gear on--takes me 4 hours--for the last hour the rain is blowing directly into our faces--everyone just focussed on their next few steps---finally get to a village and bar---and its crowded and warm--have 2 coffees and a sandwich---albergues are 6 and 9 kms away--im heading for the 9km one--supposed to have sheets and blankets--quite an incentive--however within 5 minutes of leaving the warm, im limping again--left ankle again--limp the next 6 kms to Legidos-- and the woman offers me a single room with sheets and blankets---and a BATH--all for 10E about 16$---will miracles never cease!!!!!!!!!!!!! I luxeriate in the hot bath for at least 30 minutes---my spirits and body are renewed again. And Im delighted to be 1km over the half way mark. My ankle is sore but with a good rest will be better tomorrow

more icebergs---more lessons--more resolutions

a couple of hours after i book into the convent, I realise for the 2nd day that theres no one i know --and no one who speaks english.I should be resting my foot--instead i go looking for old faces around the town---spend nearly 2 hours looking and not liking what i´m doing--but eventually find the irish girls (going home tomorrow after their 10 days walking) and Helene---all staying at the same hostel. By the time I find them I am very clear that this is NOT serving my journey here and resolve NOT to do it again on this Camino. Its one thing to run into people ¨"accidently" as I have been doing to date , but it is another thing entirely to hire detectives to find someone. So you are all right--you told me so--but obviously I had to get the message clearly for myself. In the meantime I go to the pub with them (Marie turns up too) and have tapas and wine overlooking the square. The equivalent of Match of the day here is 3 hours televised live bullfighting---I dont think Ive ever seen anything so cruel--and have to turn away from watching it.

still going

got away about 730 from castrojeriz--hoping my foot would hold up---felt fine for 11kms where i found a bar and had a half hour break---after i started again my ankle was quite sore but i was on my way again and hobbled another 8 kms to boadilla where i had to stay---marie and helene had lunch there but decided to move on to the next town-- a further 6 kms away---but i was going nowhere.tried to stay off my foot as much as possible and that helped. about 30 pilgrims staying but no familiar faces---it makes quite a difference to me i´ve found---had a communal dinner which i quite like---opposite me was another aussie--frank---his name--not his manner--he was as introverted as me--an ex pom--chatted to a german girl--walking the camino for 4 days and then driving the rest of the way to santiago---i thought there must be an easier way to get there.
This morning I got up with the early risers at 6---paid for the usual spartan breakfast--tiny pieces of cold toast and hot coffee and was on my way about 715. Two options to stay today---at Fromista 6kms where the others had gone onto last night ---and Carrion 27kms---nothing else open in between. I had decided if I was limping or in pain at Fromista then it would be stupid to try and go another 21kms---so was hoping and praying I got beyond Fromista---and I did---foot still good---from there just one foot in front of the other about 21000 more times and hey presto I was in Carrion---booked into the monastery whereSt Francis of Assissi stayed---I dont think conditions have changed much since he stayed--pretty spartan---but the good news is that my foot feels much better after todays walk than after yesterdays---the pilgrims life come down to pretty basic ingrediants---and take just one day at a time--no point looking too far ahead. more news on Tim---has gone to the Spanish seaside and intends to come back to walk the final 100 kms. Many thanks for all the comments---very encouraged by them

icebergs ahead---but i ignore warnings

About 2 hours after my last entry 4 days ago ,I got a severe pain in the ball of my left foot. I could hardly walk---felt like a bruise through to the bone--I felt my camino could be over---at least i could have to wait a couple of days to see if it improved---it had come out of the blue but i put it down to walking a couple of hours with joyce that morning---at her pace not mine, i resolved that if i got walking again that i would only walk at my own pace--another lesson from the camino,. The foot improved a bit that night and i tentavily set out the next day with albergues at 5km ,8kms 12kms, 24kms and 28kms along the way. was ready to stop at any of them if my foot got bad again but a miracle--it had been healed and i walked 28kms to ages---tired but feet good. Tim and helene and marie(a norwegian woman i walked with for a while today) all staying at the same place, Helene provided a very noble service and gave the 3 of us a foot massage--i gave her one back. Next day off on my own about 7-- about a hour later Tim and Helene catch up to me walking together---we were going slowly down a mountain so it was easy to keep up---then we hit the flat and I SPEEDED UP!!!!!!!!!!! i so wanted to be with the 2 of them--we were getting on so well---stayed with them for the next 3 hours going at THEIR pace---my feet ok-- finally on the outskirts of Burgos I told them to go ahead---I had already declined an offer to go the last 6kms into Burgos with them by bus,--i still in the place where i want to walk all the way. they went ahead, i stopped for a rest for 25 min or so. when i got up, my left foot was sore, i was limping and i suddenly realised i[d broken the rule i´,d set in stone only 2 days before---talk about a slow learner, I limped the last 7 kms through the suburbs of Burgos--Tim and I had decided to share a room at a Hostel-- he had already got it 15e each$25 so it wasnt much but it was pretty ordinary---still a comfy bed and sheets and only 2 in the room. we got together with helene for dinner in our room--fresh bread rolls and hamand cheece and avacados etc-very nice--but my foot wasnt improving---i tell them both i cant walk with them anymore and hope my foot improves by morning. Up for a pee at 1am and i cant walk on it at all-- i hop to the toilet and back and lie awake considering my optiond--i.ll have to stay a day or 2 in burgos---there is an albergue about 200m from where we are so i can book in there--see if i can see a doctor--feels like a sprain---try to remember how long they take to come good, tim wakes at 630--tell him i cant go on---he gives me some anti-inflammitories(hes a doctor)--i give him my banana--im not going anywhere. Tim goes at 730, I,m quite depressed--i go back to bed---breathe in love,-breathe out anxiety---i do a kind of meditation--just accepting what is---eventually get up i have to move out --the foot feels a bit better---i do my camino prayers and dose myself with arnica a few times---i put my boots and pack to walk to the albergue---walking like an old man with a walker--and my foot doesnt feel too bad---theres an albergue 2km out of town---if i can get there at least im moving forward---still feeling really flat---a shout comes across the street (Peter style) its a workman on the 2nd floor of a construction site yelling Buen Camino and giving me a thumbs up with a big grin-- just what i needed-- shed a few tears---stop to buy an elastic support for my ankle--get to next albergue and the foot is still ok---another miracle--i decide to go on slowly---eventually get 13 kms to Rabe de las calzados and decide not to push my luck further---find the albergue--a private house--only 3 of us there--a motherly type who washes all my clothes and then wants to look at my feet after the shower--she puts clay all over the left foot and wraps it in gladwrap and tells me to put it up till tomorrow---and i do---apart from the best meal on the camino--a thick and hearty meat and vege soup---it all restores my spirits tremendously. When i leave the next day she kisses me on both cheeks-- a brave act considering 17 days growth---have come a further 28 kms today toCastrojeriz--feeling tired but feet good and spirits high--- have run into helene again---she tells me that tim quit the camino yesterday---about 3 hours after he left me.Feel i,ve been on an incredible emotional, physical and spiritual rollercoaster over the last 4 days---incredibly grateful that my stupidity hasnt cost me the journey ---and im still going---a shorter day tomorrow i think---love to you all

day 12 santo domingo to belorado 24kms

went to a mass in the cathedral last night--they have a chook pen in the cathedral - a long story- and then out to dinner with vigo and frankie and liz and carol (spending the night in a hotel--200 bucks a night) had to rush back at 5 to 10 --they lock the doors at 10 and let no one else in--as i was the last bed i scored the bed next to the door so every time someone got up they would brush past me to open the door and the light from outside would flood in --got only 1 hours sleep-- but grateful for a bed at all. My earliest start this morning 630am--met an american lady joyce a bit later--she had just gone an hour out of her way besause a sign had fallen off and was pointing the wrong way. fresh from my lesson a week ago i fixed the sign up to point the right way. i was pushing to keep up wiyh her and she went on --then caught her at the next town--no arrows but so workmen sent us in the right direction, stayed with her then for 2 hours but then i needed a break so she went on. did the walk today in 6 hours choice of 3 places to stay--always a judgment call--whats written in the guides--what people tell you. walked in and welcomed by helene who i hadnt seen for a few days---its great to see a friendly face in a strange town---later tim turned up--offloading his pack did the trick for him. quiet afternoon now catching up with washing and diary and resting for the day--days ahead. thanks for all your comments--hello linda

the spanish man

about an hour or so after i left villamayor de montjardin, i passed a peasant spanish man coming towards me. he warmly greeted me with a buenas dias on his way past. the next day about 9 am i passed him again another greeting. the next day ,a further 20 kms on about 2 hours into the walk i pass him again--still going the opposite way to me. how weird is this spoke to bruce the scotsman about it and he had noticed him too. yesterday i couldnt believe my eyes--about 2 hours into the walkand now 60kms from where i first saw him, here he was again. one of the mysteries of the camino---i decided that if i saw him today i would ask him if he spoke english--- i suspect not. i didnt see him today

the best laid plans

got away from ventosa at 7--just before dawn ..my favourite time of day---was looking at 15kms or 24kms--so decided to up the ante to 24---no bar open in first village at 9--so had some almonds and chocolate---the breakfast of champions---got to next village at 11 (15kms) and a bar open so had a huge bread roll and coffee and 30 minute break then headed off for last 9 kms--was getting really hot--put sunscreen on and my water almost ran out--however finally after another 3 hours, staggered into cirinuela--then about 1.5 kms walking through town--ready to collapse--couldnt see the algergue anywhere--they are usually really well signposted--finally pulled up a local---albergue peregrinos????? i asked---no no no she said---there was a bar nearby---decided she may not have known or understood---and i needed something to eat anyway-- so ate and had coffee and then asked again---same answer --no--go to santo domingo. it was another 6 kms awaydoesnt sound far --took me another 1 hr 40 min to get there--had refilled water in wash room--should have been 2 places to stay here--1st wasnt answering the door bell so down to the 2nd--5 pilgrims in waiting room --a german told me that i.d just missed the last bed---was still processing that when the official came back and said i had the last bed--praise the lord---tim and vico and frankie all here--tims feet bad --may have to finish his walk here-willwait a couple of days ans see---love to all

longrono-ventosa 20km

got an early start out of longrono--in a short sleeve shirt as usual--everyone else rugged up as usual--but not feeling cold--then saw a flashing sign--6.56 10c--and i realised why everyone was rugged up--after about 40 minutes when my walking didnt warm me up i put my fleece on--for the next 90 minutes. for the 1st time got to a village with an open bar for breakfast--about 930 coffee and large bread roll with ham and cheese--great, as i was leaving so were another couple so fell in with them--we were going same pace-- they were aussies from s a vigo and frankie--walked with them for 2 hours and really enjoyed it-- i got to 20km and stopped--they went on another 9kms--i decided too far for me---stayed in a nice place in ventosa--grabbed a bottom bunk as usual--no ladders or steps to get up either---4 hours later a big german guy in the bunk above pointed to my bed and pulled up his shirt and showed me all his war wounds--he obviously could see that i was superfit and could leap 6 feet in a single boundso i took that as a compliment and swapped him beds, out to dinner with vera the aussie and a scotsman- good company

answers

you ask the tough questions Jo--most of the time you cant see anyone ahead or behind you--maybe 60%of the time--so you can just go next to the path. for more serious tasks, its mostly the alberquesat night-morning--or a bar in the village if you can find one-- i couldnt today and just had to hang on-- a forest would have been handy but none available. No medications used except stuff for feet and muscles which i use every day. have left nothing behind i want. my spanish is terrible--usually point or say food? bed?--one spanish word at a time-though i´m good on the buenos dias and nearly everyone responds. lessons everyday mostly about my own judgments or prejudices--you have lots of time to reflect on decisions--judgments you make--its physically harder than i imagined--every day is difficult and exhausting--still waiting for that to improve as everyone says it does. and i imagine if anyone thinks theyre my conscience, maybe he should have a look at his own--or do the camino himself!!!!!!!!

Day 9 to Longrono 20km

Feeling good today for about 4 hours--terrain good but my legs got really tired for the last hour--couldnt have gone much further.STILL WITH ENGLISH IRISH GERMAN LADIES--THE MEN MOVE FASTER THAN ME MADE A COUPLE OF EGG SANDWICHES FOR MYSELF TODAY--DELICIOUS will just have to keep doing 20 km a day until my stamina improves--thought i´d be doing more miles per day by now but just cant do it at the moment--the second wind must be about to kick in. have met a nice aussie lady from hobart---made a few of us a cuppa this arvo--shes doing 10 km a day- thats a good pace love to all

day 8 to torres del rio 19 kms

woke up feeling much better despite a nagging ache in right shoulder--still there but seems to disappear when i throw the backpack on. Stayed with dutch evangelical group last night--- did grace before a wonderful home cooked meal and then gave us all a copy of St Johns Gospel (James brother) in our own language. Breakfast at 7 was great too--fresh hot bread and cheese ,ham,jam,muesli ,drinks. Left well fortified at 730. Spectacular sunrise--lovely morning Got to Los Arcos at 1015. 20 minutes thru town then stopped for break--boots sox off Had half packet of cashews, an orange and bit of chocolate. Day got very hot after that 33 C !!!!! Another 2 hours walking to Torres del Rio---Tim went past---going on to Viana. Found a nice Albrgue here as did Germans and Liz and Carol and mostly other French, Germans and Italians. No bar or restaurant here so Carol Liz and i bought eggs tomatoes cheese bread butter from tiny shop and Carol whipped up an omlette Great.Havent shaved since Oz Feels Ok from my side of the face but I´m avoiding mirrors. Another 20 km tomorrow I hope.. love you all

short day

Not a good day--woke up depressed--had decided on a short day only 8 kms to stay in a place that looked and give my body a rest--so got out of bed later--left later--stopped after an hour and wrote for 40 minutes--walking lovely to villamayor de montjardin--decided to climb to ruins there but they were locked up. came good with wonderful food, friends showing up german ladies and an aussie Tim

day 6 obanos to estella 26km

Seemed to be first awake again and ready to go. Said my farewells to contacts--very brief--see you on the trail---i´m headed for estella--maybe. You cant ever be too sure where you will end up--and we dont discuss where we will stay in estella--if we get there--there are 3 pilgrim places there--and hotels etc. Got going at 730 --a tough little uphill to start the day but not as hilly as previous days---stopped for a breather and had half my cashews after a couple of hours---finally after 4 hours walking (Gerard the Frenchman passed me and later to my surprise so did the Irish lass Katrina. I thought she´d be way ahead of me but she had an extra day in Pamplona) I came across a bar inLorca.They had a special on-- a bread roll and a beer for 3E ($5) so I snapped that up--and they had a free internet so I put yesterdays doings on there--Obanos had no internet--and had another bread roll--egg and potato--very nice. Must have been there for an hour--felt pretty refreshed so pushed on--finally got to Estella just as I caught up with Isabelle--girl from Sweden who is going to Santiago--did St j to Ron in one day. She decided to stay at the Municipal Alberque which we came to first. I had made a note that Joyce Rupp had said it was very crowded and ordinary so had decided to push on to one that was 1.6km further on--with no guarantee that there will be a vacancy-- I would have had to retrace my steps if full---was counting on the fact that it was further so more likely people would stay at the first place (120 beds) than the 2nd (28 beds). My hunch paid off and I got a non-bunk bed--there were only 8 of them and 2 left. Katrina is staying here but I suspect the other contacts are staying at the larger hostel if they made it this far. my longest distance--but I´m also aware I need to average todays kms. And I´m thinking of having a shorter day tomorrow. Backpack has felt uncomfortable for last 2 days--but not as worried about it today

pamplona to orbanos

the german ladies got in late last night---on of them had collapsed on the trail today(lack of water they think) she eventually came around and came on slowly. I was lying awake again waiting for some movement so i could get going --it was raining--still dark when the volunteer opened the door and said breakfast was on --bread , butter, jam,,tea, coffee--free---they had a donation box a great and welcome service--got going about 815--went via cathedral but closed for another 2 hours so headed off---quite easy going thru the city and suburbs and i felt good---then across fields and hills gradually going up and up--about 25% of it thru mud--vey slow going but spectacular landscape up towards huge windmills---must have been middayish when i reached the top --found a stone wall to sit on and took off boots , sox and backpacks and had the only food i was carrying--half of a tiny packet of raisins that i´d bought at london airport--its amazing how much you appreciate something if its all you have. took 20 minutes there and then headed down the otherside--a steep descentwith lots of smooth river stones very slow and tricky---enentually got to a little village with a bar --and had the works --3 courses--20 bucks--about 40 minutes there and then about an hours walk to Obanos--thought i may get further today but i was worn out with the up and downs and the mud. booked in --only 2 others there-- Helene the danish woman from 3rd day and Yens who took me for a meal yesterday--amazing---later the 2 german ladies turned up --they had missed an arrow today and gone an hour extra. I didnt want dinner after my hugh lunch but went to the shop and got and apple and nutty chocolate--healthy dinner---plus an orange and banana for breakfast and a packet of cashews for emergencies. it was a bit cold no blankets wore my warm coat in the sleeping bag. feet still good--leg muscles quite sore. spirits very high.love you all. thanks for comments.

pamplona

last night in zubiri---8 of us in a small room--4 double bunks. went to mass about 3 doors down and joined in the spanish hymns---after another pilgrim who i´d signed a peace with invited me to the local bar for a beer---i thought maybe my purpose here may be to learn how to get back on the grog---have been drinking everyday---he is danish,67,and has done parts of the camino before-- is here for 2 weeks this time to see how far he gets. then we joined gerard the frenchman doing the whole camino for the first time, for a meal. the equivalent of the counter lunch in spain is the menu del dia---3 courses and wine for 7-10 euros---11-17 dollars--pretty good value--basic food but they dont give you a glass of wine, they give you a bottle......up at 630 this morning and through all the rituals--packing the sleeping bag up,putting all the clean clothes in their plastic bags,giving my muscles a rub and my feet a massage,looking up the guide book to get a sense of where i´m headed today---places i might stop if things are going well and an earlier place to stop if i.m tired. i decided pamplona was my limit if things were going well---was the first out of the refuge about 7.20--our first fine day---had a banana and orange for breakfast--had a break after 1.5 hours--unloaded my packs,boots off and had a muesli barand an apple----all bush paths today and still quite muddy in places--your boots go about 1 inch into the mud or more--and still a lot of up and downhill. whil i was resting a young guy came along---i said buenos dias and then asked espangnol no german told him i was australian and he started speaking english told me he was a mad surfer. asked him how far he was going. he wasnt sure--he´d run out of water--so i gave him half of mine--he was very grateful--promised to pay me back and he was off. he was the only one i.d seen all morning. then an old guy --local--about 70 came past and stopped to chat. i think he asked me how i was ,where i was going and wished me well on my journey--a nice moment in the day. i stopped again about 2 hours later on a hillside overlooking a beautiful valley and a fast flowing river a 100metre sheer drop below--again packs off and shoes off--there about 20 minutes taking it all in and ate a packet of cashews---is this too much detail---about 10 pilgrims went past me including 2 who knew and greeted me--helene my first contact on the track and gerard the frenchman from last night--a good feeling. was pretty tired by nowbut kept on plugging on. then i came across quite a swampy area---was following 3 women who had passed me---and a local was yelling out to them they were going the wrong way and directed them away from where the arrow was pointing---i followed them and 5 minutes later got confirmation we were on the right track with another arrow---but i was plagued with guilt for miles later that i should have gone back and righted the wrong arrow as others were likely to be misled. eventually i had to decide to either go back several kms or let it go---i plodded on---through the suburbs of pamplona and then suddenly after forever walking---6 hour today i was there-- a delightful new refuge--4 in a room and a bath--only 3 ft long but it was such luxery--an hour later yens turned up and we had a late lunch together.haven´t looked at tomorrow yet--living in the now. love to you all

connections

had 2 connections today--my first on the track. a danish lady caught up to me and we walked together for 20 minutes or so. she is doing her 5th camino in 5 years after her daughter was killed in a car accident in spain 5 years ago. when we came to a hill i slowed to a crawl and she was off. 2 hours later an irish lass about 30 caught up to me---i dont pass anybody-----and stayed chatting while we walked for 45 minutes till she caughtup with friends met yesterday---they waitedfor her ---we solved all the problems of the world

3rd day 22km

lights on at 6 and got going in the near dark and rain at 7. big decision this morning--had an extra heavy coat for the cold but its not cold enough and too heavy to carry 1kg--so left it behind. was just going 12 km today but there at 1030 and feeling good so came onto zubiri---last 10 km was through a lot of muddy paddocks--pretty heavy going---was buggered by the time i got to zubiri at 2---7 hours walking. booked into refuge free internetso i thought id try again---using capitals took me out. im sure everyone else is waiting feeling graet now after feed and shower. cant access email at this stage but can read your comments many thanks for those much love

2nd day

2nd day 13k yesterday 12 today to roncesvalles. left after toast and muffin breakfast at 9 --they laughed when i said i wanted breakfast at 7. was raining but not really cold ---first 2 hours glorious scenery---walking mostly beside or above wild mountain streams. then the path started uphill and went up and up ---one half foot in front of the other---frequent stops to catch my breath get some energy back--a lot of it through mud---only saw one other person--an extrovert frenchman--talked to me for 5 minutes---who knows what he said. finally at roncesvalles 4.5 hours later. had lunch at pub then found an internet---anxious for some contact--i couldnt log in my password wasnt working on my blog ac or my email--spent an hour and 3 euros --very frustrating--and all the sites in spanish---why wasnt i told---i realised this was a divine intervention but i wasnt ready for it --felt very flat and alone--booked into refuge 100 beds 50 bunksin lots of 4 so you hane someone lying beside you but they had warm showers pilgrim mass at 8 four priests read out all the nationalities i was the only aussie.two german women ive passed a few times invited me for a glass of wine---book of messages at the refuge one there from renata directed to me --burst into tears at the connection

finally

set off from st jean at midday--the last one out of town--trying to slow myself down---beautiful fine day--thanks jo---road very clearly marked through farmland---stopped after 2 hours and took boots off and massaged feet and had a mueslibar---just loved every moment.stayed in valcarlos--a hotel--no refuge there so my own bath---first change of clothes for 3 days---washed everything in sink--feel just great to be on the way

The Power of Now

Still 9 hours till I leave Sydney and already my first major awareness/awakening. Spent some time yesterday getting my anxiety levels up by looking up the forecasts in St Jean Pied de Port, Valcarlos and Roncesvalles for next Thursday and Friday ---first 2 days on the trail----plenty to get anxious about --- but what a waste of energy about something that may or may not happen. I probably spend about 90% of my time in the past or the future and this walk is a great opportunity to spend more time in the present.

Preparing to leave

Only 4 sleeps to go till I fly out to Paris. Was up at 3.45 am this morning and went on a 24 km walk with my backpack. Took my time 5.25 hours. Tested out my raingear - got a bit wet but then realised I had my pockets unzipped. Otherwise feeling good at the end of the walk. Have just found out theres been a big snowfall in the Pyranees-- Max of 8 degrees C so I'm throwing in an extra warm coat---will donate it to the Spanish Vinnies when the weather warms up.

I'm hoping this will enable friends and family to follow my adventures on the Camino trail in Spain. I'm leaving Sydney on 10th April and starting my walk from St Jean Pied de Port on 12th April. I will update you when I'm on the trail.