postscript

I didnt sleep well---and the room and furniture just seemed so extravagent for one person---used to fitting about 20 people in a space like that. up early out of habit--public holiday here for ascension thursday so most things closed---went looking for a place to have breakfast---finally found one and made my final new connection---a danish woman in her 50s who went the whole way--started a few days after me---we chatted over breakfast. Of course Helene and I met again---5 minutes earlier or later we would have missed each other but synchronisity seems to happen all the time on the camino. Went to the midday Pilgrims mass in the Cathedral---and was touched to hear in spanish¨¨One pilgrim from Australia who started from St Jean¨¨--there was a long list--a number started from St Jean---but 90% didnt---so a little prouder of my achievement. My feet still sore so glad to have the pack off today. Weighed myself today---lost 10 kgs---800kms seems to do the trick. Feeling good today---looking forward to Tricia arriving tomorrow---one more day here, 9 days in Barcelona, Organised tour in Turkey for 13 days then 7 days in Greece--Greek Islands before coming home on 20th June.Its been a wild ride---looking forward to meeting up with you all again and repeating stories of the Camino endlessly.Many thanks again for all your comments-emails---they have made all the difference.

Santiago

In Arzua there are 30 in the Albergue and 30 more in the village square where i sit for an hour---its as if i.ve been beamed to another country---where are all the people i.ve been travelling with---and where did THESE people come from--i eat on my own 3rd time in 4 days--only 6 times in 34 days--feeling flat. In no hurry next morning--take a break in a roadside cafe about 10---and decided that instead of going to the nearest place to Santiago--to get there in time for the Pilgrims mass on wed at 12---i would stop earlier at a place for 15 instead of 120--its an inspired choice---I get a single bed--with sheets,blankets AND towel and in a little alcove on my own---there are also 7 double bunks----also a lovely communal dinner--about 6 different nationalities---and lots of laughter---my soul is feeling much better. NEXT DAY THEY ALSO HAVE BREAKFAST and i dont leave till 8---walk steadily--meet up with susie--an Austrian girl who was the only other english speaker at a dinner a week ago---we walk together for a while---and then walk with granya for a while.About 4km out I dont know which way to go---and there is a group of 6 blind pilgrims--all with their guide dogs---and their leader who has no dog but is only 5% sighted---AND I ASK THE BLIND MAN WHICH WAY TO GO---he points left---so i go left and im reassured 1km later when i look back and they are all following me---and then I get to a major intersection and no arrows---and realise ive gone the wrong way---so i retrace my steps---and all the blind people follow me again. NOTE--Add 2km to tally. Coming into the city i wanted the Cathedral to appear in all its glory around a corner---instead i came in via a back door---about 6 other pilgrimsbut none i knew---im glad its over but no tears or euphoria---i go out to the main square--more pilgrims but no one i know--i sit in the square contemplating my next move when granya--- bless her--- appears--says theres a lunch organised with dominic and marie---and dinner later with others---suddenly the world takes on colour again---i realise how much i depend on familiar faces to sustain me in my day. I book a room where Granya is staying $90 a night--Meet Danielle,maria,Frank Marie,Dominic at lunch---hugs all round---later meet Jethro, Thomas Fritz. at 6 go looking for an internet and run into Helene--still with backpack on---just walked 40 kms---was robbed of 300E where id left her with a migraine. She was looking for a place to stay. SOOOOOOOOO really glad to be here---its definately the hardest thing physically ive ever done---its been a huge rollercoaster emotionally and spiritually---ill be processing aspects of this trip for years--its probably the best thing ive done for myself--apart from marriage. I couldnt have done it without all your support---its been wonderful and constant and generous and never let me forget i was very loved---and THAT makes a huge difference in anyones life. My advice--DO IT !!!! Have to go its 11 at night---a long day

a good day

Had dinner with a Finnish couple last night Heli and Matti---doing a 2 week camino--enjoyed a 3 course meal for $15. Up at 615 this morning and it was pouring--got ready anyway and just working out which swimming stroke I should use when it stopped completely about one minute before I stepped into it---water everywhere but none from above. Felt great walking today--in the first hour passed Pedroo --about my age from South Africa--doing a 4 week camino and Orilli --a young girl from France--doing from Longrono to Santiago---she did St Jean to Longrono 3 years ago.Stopped for a break about 1030--had a coffee and a freshly made Tortilla and a hunk of fresh crusty bread---just the bees knees---felt I was just flying after that---actually went a bit further than intended--ended up at Arzua--30km on--so I would only have 19km tomorrow--my feet so good today---the walk was spectacular--no wonder people do the last 100 kms its just so continuously beautiful---the end in sight almost---but still have 40 km to go--have to continue to stay in the now---still have the beard--a bit more substantial now--but its days are numbered--- I seem to be the only one growing one for the camino---and I.ve carried a razor all that way!!!! Have lost weight too---just about run out of holes in my belt---but feel good for it--but intend to work hard at putting it back on before I get back to Aus

a tough day

Was raining when we got up this morning---i.ve been really blessed with the weather---really glorious days---but today was not one of them---by the time I got going at 715 the rain had stopped and it looked like i was wearing all my wet weather gear for show---but about an hour into the walk there was a shower followed by another---and then it became more persistent and the wind picked up---gusting so hard at times that it would blow me a couple of steps across the road---and for a time the rain was coming from head on---i worked out that if i put my head forward enoughthen the brim of my hat would stop the rain on my face---but i could then only see 2 feet in front of me (so to speak). Great to take 5 minutes respite from the rain to catch up with Mum and Maz---Sorry you got the short straw Jo---those calls were from one of about 6 phones that didnt work today. Finally got to the outskirts of Palas de Rei and there was a brand new Albergue--great to get out of the rain and get my dripping wet things off and claim a bed----and then i realised there was no meals available and no bars ,shops, restaurants nearby---no washing machines,dryers,no internet---the place was very clean but no warmth or positive energy. For the 1st time on this journey---and despite it still pouring outside--I decided to move on---About 1km further was the town with lots of bars, shops etc--and an Albergue---when I walked in there there were about 10 people sitting around waiting to be attended to but no official in sight---a woman I knew said she was staying but ¨¨it was very basic¨¨---and it looked a cold grey place. I finally looked up my guide--would have normally done this earlier but in pouring rain it does have its problems---and I had noted that there was a 3rd Albergue in this town---SOOOOO for the 2nd time on this journey I walked out into the rain again. The 3rd Albergue was only another 100m further on---and more like im used to--a warm welcome---and small rooms --but crowded--the good ones often are---the camino is now stacked with people who have started walking in the last few days--i would say more than half of them---so there are a lot more people around--and a lot more strangers---ran into Jethro this morning in a bar--still full of beans---but has been slowed down with foot trouble--and Andres from Iceland---was doing huge distances---but was laid up for 6 days with stomach problems--finally on anti-biotics---but moving again today---walking entirely on my own again today---and content with that---i.m limping a bit on my left ankle again---its crying out for a weeks rest---i.m promising it a week starting Thursday---Love to all --your support has been so significant in getting me thus far---hopefully a few more kms tomorrow

Another beautiful day in paradise

Today was even more beautiful than yesterday---a mild spring day--walking thru woods and avenues of trees and about 10 tiny villages with cobbled streets and often sharing the narrow path with a small number of sheep or cows being ushered somewhere by their owners---and as always the beautiful wildflowers---today a big bright yellow bush like wattle predominated. and on top of all this , views to die for at every step--valleys with villages and riversand as green as green everywhere.Got to Portomarin today---but my feet are really feeling the pressure---23kms today in 6 hours but it seemed a long way--I stopped with a hour to go in a field with lush grass--unpacked and took off shoes--sox---and had a wonderful 3 course lunch. First a delicious, juicy orange. Then a cheese and tomato roll on very crusty bread that I.d saved half of from earlier in the day---then to finish off a few squares of chocolate with almonds--a great lunch in a wonderful location. Saw Danielle and Granya briefly today---otherwise quite solitary--but enjoying being on my own today.The albergue that Im in looks out over a river---stunning views--a nice place to spend a few hours. love to you all. Special XXXXXXXXXXXXX to Mum for Mothers Day---

day29 30

i ended up the only person at Portela Valcarce--STILL NO APPETITE--But order dinner anyway---get about one third thru it and feel sick--have a fever again--this time i..m freezing cold--take another 2 disprin and go to bed again at 7 and slowly warm up. Its great being the only person in the room---you can turn on the light when you get up--i..m used to doing all my preparations in the dark. FEELING BETTER THE NEXT DAY--CLimb another mountain--it rises 2000 feet in 7 km--quite challenging on rocky mountain paths but my legs seem better able to cope now---get to the top at 11 (O´´Cebriero) and push on another 12 kms---27 in total and find another quiet place to stay atFonfria where i find a single bed---on ny bed for hours in the arvo resting my feet. Dinner at 8 is communal---decide its too late for me--and then change my mind---wonderful dinner---rich hot vegetable soup---then trays of meat and potatoes--as much as you want---then sweets--and as much wine as you want---all for $14---my first meal in 3 days. Today was a beautiful days walking--up high on mountains and fantastic landscapes every minute--in the valleys below you can see fields and villages and monasterys---prettier than a painting---pushed it today again 27 kms---if i average 24 km a day i.ll finish on wednesday--but nothing is certain as ive discovered---walked with some irish girls today for 40 mins--friends of Dominic--also ran into Granya and Connie. Found a lovely place in Sarria tonight for 6e and there was a bath---I was in it so quickly---and later noticed a sign that said it was for the disabled---but figured i was disabled enough to qualify--it seems like i.m nearly there---but i have to keep remembering i still have to walk another 120kms

day 26-28

Left Rabanal early---got to the high point of the camino--where there is a place to leave something on a monument--left a photo of an angel on the pole facing all the pilgrims---was determined to have another quiet day so stopped about 130 atRiego de Ambros---A very quiet village--no other english speakers--no internet--so had to rest which was good---then at 5pm Helene walks in to stay the night--glad to see someone I can chat to, have dinner with.Next day we decide to walk together for a while at a pace that suits us both---more walking thru the mountains covered with a purple bush as far as the eye can see--we are both off colour--Helene has a migraine and I feel Queasy And dont feel like eating--we get lost coming out of Ponferrada and instead of parks and quiet suburbs we are walking on the equivalent of Parramatta road for about 12 kms in very hot weather--no intermediate stops--we have to go 30 kms to find a place to stay--I just collapsed onto the bed when I got there about 530---10 hour day---After 30 minutes I go and showerBut that takes my last remaining energy--the bar is 300-400m away---no way I can get there--I have an orange and a few almonds I..m carrying--I..m also burning up --have a high fever---have a couple of disprin and am in bed at 630 (sunset about 9)--I sleep OK and the fever goes but have gastric---the joys of the camino !!!!--Helene migraine is worse and she cant move---I get going about 730--feeling quite weak--with very little food yesterday---after 2 hours find a cafe open--the best they can offer is dry toast and cheese--so i take it. A difficult day---felt like I was dragging my feet all day---stop at 2 at la Portela de Valcarce--so far have a room for 4 to myself---and feeling like Im getting stronger---I need to be --biggest climb of Camino tomorrow---Great to make contact with Erin for her birthday---and Phil and Flis --Love to you all