Catching up

Another day in Santiago---went to the midday mass and finally saw the giant insense burner swinging---takes 8 men to get it swinging--must weigh about 500kgs---but they get it swinging up to nearly the ceiling.-with the insence burning inside---very impressive. Ran into Ian and Kathryn there and also peter Mcgowan got in about halfway through mass---we met them all for drinks and dinner tapas great food and then followed by more drinks. Have had a great 2 days here---we had intended to go to Fisisterre but are going to the UK instead to spend a couple of days with Nigels sister before flying back from Paris on Thursday. Not sure I,ll ever walk anywhere again---or wear a backpack

The Holy Grail

A lot of pilgrims want to reach Santiago by Midday for the Pilgrims Mass. Jo and I were not so concerned about this but when most of the Albergue was getting up and ready at 530am we decided there wasnt much point trying to sleep. WE GOT GOING AT 630--JUST ENOUGH LIGHT TO SEE ARROWS AND FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 7 DAYS, NO RAIN---THE lORD BE BLESSED. Even though we were relatively close the last 20 kms was challenging---just because we were keen to finally get there. No bars on the way or they were not open and we had had no breakfast---but when we got to trhe outskirts of Santiago, we didnt want to stop. GOT IN ABOUT 113O Went to the hotel I last stayed in 70E too expensive---then a Spanish lady approached us and asked if we wwanted a room---and took us to her place where she lets out rooms 30E-bathroom down the hallway---we dumped our backpacks and went back to the Cathedral--ran into Ellen, Chris, Camille, Jungan,Kristen etc etc---hugs all around---if you had ever seen them on the Camino you got a hug---good feelings abounded-thought we were still in our walking gear (now 2 days old) and had a bit of an odour but no one seemed to notice. Had a few drinks with a group of pilgrims after that and my first food for the day and got our Compestela--an official document certifing that you have completed the requirements---ie walked the last 100 kma---Jo and I walked 820kms in 38 days--finished in pretty good physical condition---I have a few toes that will take a week or two to come back to normal and I got bitten again on my last night in an Albergue---3 new bright red blotches on my legs---but all very minor compared with many others. We were lucky but also planned well and didnt try to go too far--we mostly stopped when our bodies told us too. Jo was amazing---in such good spirits the whole way--nothing seemed to throw her---she and I walked near enough to exactly the same pace---a great companion to have along---I tested her patience and our friendship a few times but in the end it was a very bonding experience for both of us. Its been great to know that many friends, family and work colleagues have been following us and supporting us on this journey---many thanks to all those who left comments on the blog site or who emailed---it was a tremendous source of support---Im sorry I didnt get around to responding to the all but there always seemed to be pressure on internet time. I feel very lucky to have been able to complete this journey a second time--there have already been many lessons for me and Im sure the Camino will continue to work its magic on me in the months ahead. Bless you all. Chris

A hard day at the office

Got going at 7--it was pouring rain and didnt let up all day--took 30 minutes for my shirt to be soaked--another 30 to wet my trousers and after 90 minutes my boots were sloshing---felt like I was walking with my own private swimming pool. Did 20km today but it felt like 30---a couple of breaks at Bars but it just meant all the soaking wet ¨rain gear¨ had to go on again. Was a relief to get some dry clothes on---Nigel and Pamela (OZ) and Ceira (IRE-Canada) just walked in --good to see friendly faces. Only one more day---will be pleased to finish---but a fantastic adventure

Arzua---pouring rain

Stayed at a little albergue at San Xulian last night---it was raining and cold and we came into a stone cottage with a fire and bar and a wonderful communal meal---after we arrived Ellen walked in and also Sabina from the night before---sat around drinking Baileys and red wine and had a great time---one of the best places we have stayed.And not a sound sleeping---Jo and I werre the first to stir at 645---cold and raining and dark. The contrast with Arzua is very stark---staying in a large new place with about 60 people and know the odd face---but no one to eat with..Jo and I went to the bar down the road hoping someone would join us there but the pouring rain has kept everyone indoors--the weather has affected our moods somewhat but hopefully tomorrow will be fine and we will again run into people we know---maybe its because its only 2 days to go---probably the next post will be after we have finished---will be glad to get there---the long days walking---till 230 today are starting to wear me down. We ran into Ellen briefly today and agreed to meet her for dinner at Santiago--also meeting up with Christine from Canada there

in Palais de rei

Got to Hospital de la Cruz last night--22km but Id had enough---weve been staying in between the major centres--downside is there are only a few people staying there--at this place not one person in 25 that we recognised--nevertheless Jo and I decided we would go to the bar and manifest a good night for ourselves---we were the only 2 in the bar--ordered a baileys and a red wine--half an hour later we were joined by a german girl(37) Sabina--who spoke good english--was interesting---happy to hang out with us and ate with us and our night was made. Nearly died this morning--literally---leaving the albergue had to cross a main road 4 lanes--corners 50 metres each way so no vision of whats coming--traffic going 130km-hour-Nearly stumbled headlong into a fast car that had its horn blaring---i was looking the wrong way---such a fine line between life and death. Have walked 13 km this morning--going 19 today---raining still--4 or 5 days now but mostly not heavy--just met up with ceira from Canada---laid up with bad feet ---Jo and I have been so blessed

A long day

We left Samos in the rain yesterday---not heavy but it persisted all day. Walked through some glorious countryside---lanes covered by trees--streams with little stone bridges--scenes that would have us stopping in awe a dozen times a day. But hard going physically---lots of ups and downs through the hills---we had left without breakfast and were hanging out for the first bar and to get a break from the cold and rain---finally we saw a village just ahead ---and then bypassed it. Finally in a tiny village with about 2 people we found an open bar---Ellen was there --glad to see her---and the lady in the bar cooked Jo and I a fresh tortilla---beautiful and hot and with some crusty bread---sometimes the very best of meals can come at unexpected times. Santa from Latvia(40) had been walking with Jo and I for a few days--we must have seemed safe to her---but her feet were quite bad after wearing inadequate shoes for a couple of days and she quit the camino in sarria. Jo and I went on---we faced a 14km day to Sarria or 27kms to Ferrerios and we decided as it was a wet day it was a good day for our feet---which was true---but 27kms was really testing---it seemed to take us forever---kept on trying to take breaks so we could go a bit further---we looked like facing the last 8kms without anywhere to stop so Jo and I decided to manifest a stop---we wanted it about halfway----a bar with something to eat and a place to rest out of the rain---and blow me down--in the middle of nowhere--not near a village--was this bar ---right on halfway. We suspected that as soon as we left it would just vanish again. we didnt get in till 10 to 4---9 hours on the road---we were exhausted---went and had something to eat at the local bar and were in bed by 8---a lovely mixture of snoring last night but nothing could keep me awake. up at 6 as usual and had toast and coffee at 630 in a nearby restuarant and on our way by 7---have stopped in Portamarin for 80 minutes or so so update our blogs and have a coffee and get some money from a hole in the wall--Jo cant access her cash so Im financing her---gives me a lot of leverage in the decision making process and she has had to drop some of the defiance and petulance she has been going on with---lessons from the camino No 148. Still raining outside---heading for Hospital de la Cruz today---probably---one day at a time

Bed bugs

Forgot to mention---they werent bed bugs but spider bites---I expect I will still have the Welts when I get home

challenges

So much news -so little time. Had an alternative route out of Villafranca---but were told you had to be extremely fit and have no trouble with knees, ankles or feet. I thought 1 out of 4 was OK--nothing wrong with my ankles---so I set off on the very steep 400m climb---12kms--Took a stop at the top and limped away from the stop but came good after a while. Went to Herrerias--Jo avoided the hill and still feeling fit went on 3km further---She mumbled something about me not being in charge of her and not knowing what was best for her---and said she had a really good night on her own---clearly lying to cover up her poor decision making. Next morning came across a couple of Canadians who said äre you Jos brother¨¨They had had dinner with her the night before and she had given them a rough description--rough being the operative word---havent shaved for 4 weeks. Got to the high point without too much drama and went on to Fonfria last night---lovely homecooked communal meal. In Samos today---trying to do 22km a day average but my toes are very painful today--AFTER the walk---hopefully they will be better tomorrow

ponferrada to villafranca 24kms

Very hot day yesterday--repaired to the bar---have taken up drinking again on the camino---but its still getting me tipsy quite quickly---3 beers yesterdat--followed by a dinner with red wine and i was weaving my way back to the albergue. 35C predicted today so got up at 5.30 to try and beat the heat---it did work mostly---have got to VF by 1.30 even with my 4 stops to rest my feet---have large red welts all over me--I suspect bedbugs but not sore and no pain when it happened. Knee is playing up again--back to using the heavy duty sopport. Ran into a 3rd Aussie Peter this Morning--this one from Bathurst.. one day at a time---have high hopes

A weary day

Had a lovely dinner in acebo?? last night with Ian and Kathryn from Melbourne--we ordered a spanish dish -a specialty---made up of Chorizo and lots of pork wrapped in sausage skin---about the size of a fist---with lots of spuds and bits of other veggies---it was delicious-. Good nights sleep---the guy running the albergue to us last night that the doors would be locked till 7am so nobody could leave--and he was true to his word---normally people are moving around in the dorms from 430am and leaving from 5 but nobody moved till 6 this morning so a lot of us got a bit more sleep. Faced with 17 or 33 kms today--pretty easy that one---but was so weary by the time we got to ponferrada. Couldnt get in till 2 and it was very hot out---only about 30C but when you walking in it for a few hours it seems hotter. Im dead tired---almost exhausted---so what am I about to do---head for the Bar---a lot of people we know here--Ian and Kathryn. The canadians--katie and Marion. Ellen from Holland. Jungan from Oz etc---good to be with people we know---have met a lot more people this time--being with Jo helps and I tending to initiate a few more conversations and introduce myself---a lot more social---hence the bar. Adios

Astorga

Next day got to Astorga about an hour after Jo left---took my boots and sox off in the village square---doing this 3 or 4 times a day now to allow my feet to cool down. Ended up going 26kms but stopping about 2 hours in all along the way---got to El Ganzo--nobody else there I knew---suspected Jo was 7 kms ahead. Got going early this morning--got to rabanal---bottom of the village as Jo was leaving the top but I then had to rest for 40 minutes---finally caught up with her at Foncebadon-- she was about to leave a bar as I walked in---had a very emotional reunion--long hug and many tears---we hadnt had any contact---just a broad plan to catch up in 2 or 3 days---and use the internet--but I hadnt found one till an hour before I met her. We walked together then to Acebo---last few days have been very hot so pleased to finish walking by 2 each day

still moving

Left Mazariffe facing 19kms or 30 kms Could only go 19---Jo feeling much better went on to Astorga but arrived exhausted and says she wont attempt to do 30kms again in a day. I stopped in Santibanez-tiny village with no shop or bar. Tha albergue put on dinner--out in the garden under fruit trees---a lovely setting---only 2 of us spoke english