Catching up

Another day in Santiago---went to the midday mass and finally saw the giant insense burner swinging---takes 8 men to get it swinging--must weigh about 500kgs---but they get it swinging up to nearly the ceiling.-with the insence burning inside---very impressive. Ran into Ian and Kathryn there and also peter Mcgowan got in about halfway through mass---we met them all for drinks and dinner tapas great food and then followed by more drinks. Have had a great 2 days here---we had intended to go to Fisisterre but are going to the UK instead to spend a couple of days with Nigels sister before flying back from Paris on Thursday. Not sure I,ll ever walk anywhere again---or wear a backpack

The Holy Grail

A lot of pilgrims want to reach Santiago by Midday for the Pilgrims Mass. Jo and I were not so concerned about this but when most of the Albergue was getting up and ready at 530am we decided there wasnt much point trying to sleep. WE GOT GOING AT 630--JUST ENOUGH LIGHT TO SEE ARROWS AND FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 7 DAYS, NO RAIN---THE lORD BE BLESSED. Even though we were relatively close the last 20 kms was challenging---just because we were keen to finally get there. No bars on the way or they were not open and we had had no breakfast---but when we got to trhe outskirts of Santiago, we didnt want to stop. GOT IN ABOUT 113O Went to the hotel I last stayed in 70E too expensive---then a Spanish lady approached us and asked if we wwanted a room---and took us to her place where she lets out rooms 30E-bathroom down the hallway---we dumped our backpacks and went back to the Cathedral--ran into Ellen, Chris, Camille, Jungan,Kristen etc etc---hugs all around---if you had ever seen them on the Camino you got a hug---good feelings abounded-thought we were still in our walking gear (now 2 days old) and had a bit of an odour but no one seemed to notice. Had a few drinks with a group of pilgrims after that and my first food for the day and got our Compestela--an official document certifing that you have completed the requirements---ie walked the last 100 kma---Jo and I walked 820kms in 38 days--finished in pretty good physical condition---I have a few toes that will take a week or two to come back to normal and I got bitten again on my last night in an Albergue---3 new bright red blotches on my legs---but all very minor compared with many others. We were lucky but also planned well and didnt try to go too far--we mostly stopped when our bodies told us too. Jo was amazing---in such good spirits the whole way--nothing seemed to throw her---she and I walked near enough to exactly the same pace---a great companion to have along---I tested her patience and our friendship a few times but in the end it was a very bonding experience for both of us. Its been great to know that many friends, family and work colleagues have been following us and supporting us on this journey---many thanks to all those who left comments on the blog site or who emailed---it was a tremendous source of support---Im sorry I didnt get around to responding to the all but there always seemed to be pressure on internet time. I feel very lucky to have been able to complete this journey a second time--there have already been many lessons for me and Im sure the Camino will continue to work its magic on me in the months ahead. Bless you all. Chris

A hard day at the office

Got going at 7--it was pouring rain and didnt let up all day--took 30 minutes for my shirt to be soaked--another 30 to wet my trousers and after 90 minutes my boots were sloshing---felt like I was walking with my own private swimming pool. Did 20km today but it felt like 30---a couple of breaks at Bars but it just meant all the soaking wet ¨rain gear¨ had to go on again. Was a relief to get some dry clothes on---Nigel and Pamela (OZ) and Ceira (IRE-Canada) just walked in --good to see friendly faces. Only one more day---will be pleased to finish---but a fantastic adventure

Arzua---pouring rain

Stayed at a little albergue at San Xulian last night---it was raining and cold and we came into a stone cottage with a fire and bar and a wonderful communal meal---after we arrived Ellen walked in and also Sabina from the night before---sat around drinking Baileys and red wine and had a great time---one of the best places we have stayed.And not a sound sleeping---Jo and I werre the first to stir at 645---cold and raining and dark. The contrast with Arzua is very stark---staying in a large new place with about 60 people and know the odd face---but no one to eat with..Jo and I went to the bar down the road hoping someone would join us there but the pouring rain has kept everyone indoors--the weather has affected our moods somewhat but hopefully tomorrow will be fine and we will again run into people we know---maybe its because its only 2 days to go---probably the next post will be after we have finished---will be glad to get there---the long days walking---till 230 today are starting to wear me down. We ran into Ellen briefly today and agreed to meet her for dinner at Santiago--also meeting up with Christine from Canada there

in Palais de rei

Got to Hospital de la Cruz last night--22km but Id had enough---weve been staying in between the major centres--downside is there are only a few people staying there--at this place not one person in 25 that we recognised--nevertheless Jo and I decided we would go to the bar and manifest a good night for ourselves---we were the only 2 in the bar--ordered a baileys and a red wine--half an hour later we were joined by a german girl(37) Sabina--who spoke good english--was interesting---happy to hang out with us and ate with us and our night was made. Nearly died this morning--literally---leaving the albergue had to cross a main road 4 lanes--corners 50 metres each way so no vision of whats coming--traffic going 130km-hour-Nearly stumbled headlong into a fast car that had its horn blaring---i was looking the wrong way---such a fine line between life and death. Have walked 13 km this morning--going 19 today---raining still--4 or 5 days now but mostly not heavy--just met up with ceira from Canada---laid up with bad feet ---Jo and I have been so blessed

A long day

We left Samos in the rain yesterday---not heavy but it persisted all day. Walked through some glorious countryside---lanes covered by trees--streams with little stone bridges--scenes that would have us stopping in awe a dozen times a day. But hard going physically---lots of ups and downs through the hills---we had left without breakfast and were hanging out for the first bar and to get a break from the cold and rain---finally we saw a village just ahead ---and then bypassed it. Finally in a tiny village with about 2 people we found an open bar---Ellen was there --glad to see her---and the lady in the bar cooked Jo and I a fresh tortilla---beautiful and hot and with some crusty bread---sometimes the very best of meals can come at unexpected times. Santa from Latvia(40) had been walking with Jo and I for a few days--we must have seemed safe to her---but her feet were quite bad after wearing inadequate shoes for a couple of days and she quit the camino in sarria. Jo and I went on---we faced a 14km day to Sarria or 27kms to Ferrerios and we decided as it was a wet day it was a good day for our feet---which was true---but 27kms was really testing---it seemed to take us forever---kept on trying to take breaks so we could go a bit further---we looked like facing the last 8kms without anywhere to stop so Jo and I decided to manifest a stop---we wanted it about halfway----a bar with something to eat and a place to rest out of the rain---and blow me down--in the middle of nowhere--not near a village--was this bar ---right on halfway. We suspected that as soon as we left it would just vanish again. we didnt get in till 10 to 4---9 hours on the road---we were exhausted---went and had something to eat at the local bar and were in bed by 8---a lovely mixture of snoring last night but nothing could keep me awake. up at 6 as usual and had toast and coffee at 630 in a nearby restuarant and on our way by 7---have stopped in Portamarin for 80 minutes or so so update our blogs and have a coffee and get some money from a hole in the wall--Jo cant access her cash so Im financing her---gives me a lot of leverage in the decision making process and she has had to drop some of the defiance and petulance she has been going on with---lessons from the camino No 148. Still raining outside---heading for Hospital de la Cruz today---probably---one day at a time

Bed bugs

Forgot to mention---they werent bed bugs but spider bites---I expect I will still have the Welts when I get home

challenges

So much news -so little time. Had an alternative route out of Villafranca---but were told you had to be extremely fit and have no trouble with knees, ankles or feet. I thought 1 out of 4 was OK--nothing wrong with my ankles---so I set off on the very steep 400m climb---12kms--Took a stop at the top and limped away from the stop but came good after a while. Went to Herrerias--Jo avoided the hill and still feeling fit went on 3km further---She mumbled something about me not being in charge of her and not knowing what was best for her---and said she had a really good night on her own---clearly lying to cover up her poor decision making. Next morning came across a couple of Canadians who said äre you Jos brother¨¨They had had dinner with her the night before and she had given them a rough description--rough being the operative word---havent shaved for 4 weeks. Got to the high point without too much drama and went on to Fonfria last night---lovely homecooked communal meal. In Samos today---trying to do 22km a day average but my toes are very painful today--AFTER the walk---hopefully they will be better tomorrow

ponferrada to villafranca 24kms

Very hot day yesterday--repaired to the bar---have taken up drinking again on the camino---but its still getting me tipsy quite quickly---3 beers yesterdat--followed by a dinner with red wine and i was weaving my way back to the albergue. 35C predicted today so got up at 5.30 to try and beat the heat---it did work mostly---have got to VF by 1.30 even with my 4 stops to rest my feet---have large red welts all over me--I suspect bedbugs but not sore and no pain when it happened. Knee is playing up again--back to using the heavy duty sopport. Ran into a 3rd Aussie Peter this Morning--this one from Bathurst.. one day at a time---have high hopes

A weary day

Had a lovely dinner in acebo?? last night with Ian and Kathryn from Melbourne--we ordered a spanish dish -a specialty---made up of Chorizo and lots of pork wrapped in sausage skin---about the size of a fist---with lots of spuds and bits of other veggies---it was delicious-. Good nights sleep---the guy running the albergue to us last night that the doors would be locked till 7am so nobody could leave--and he was true to his word---normally people are moving around in the dorms from 430am and leaving from 5 but nobody moved till 6 this morning so a lot of us got a bit more sleep. Faced with 17 or 33 kms today--pretty easy that one---but was so weary by the time we got to ponferrada. Couldnt get in till 2 and it was very hot out---only about 30C but when you walking in it for a few hours it seems hotter. Im dead tired---almost exhausted---so what am I about to do---head for the Bar---a lot of people we know here--Ian and Kathryn. The canadians--katie and Marion. Ellen from Holland. Jungan from Oz etc---good to be with people we know---have met a lot more people this time--being with Jo helps and I tending to initiate a few more conversations and introduce myself---a lot more social---hence the bar. Adios

Astorga

Next day got to Astorga about an hour after Jo left---took my boots and sox off in the village square---doing this 3 or 4 times a day now to allow my feet to cool down. Ended up going 26kms but stopping about 2 hours in all along the way---got to El Ganzo--nobody else there I knew---suspected Jo was 7 kms ahead. Got going early this morning--got to rabanal---bottom of the village as Jo was leaving the top but I then had to rest for 40 minutes---finally caught up with her at Foncebadon-- she was about to leave a bar as I walked in---had a very emotional reunion--long hug and many tears---we hadnt had any contact---just a broad plan to catch up in 2 or 3 days---and use the internet--but I hadnt found one till an hour before I met her. We walked together then to Acebo---last few days have been very hot so pleased to finish walking by 2 each day

still moving

Left Mazariffe facing 19kms or 30 kms Could only go 19---Jo feeling much better went on to Astorga but arrived exhausted and says she wont attempt to do 30kms again in a day. I stopped in Santibanez-tiny village with no shop or bar. Tha albergue put on dinner--out in the garden under fruit trees---a lovely setting---only 2 of us spoke english

Villar de Mazarife 23Kms- Total 509kms

Jo and I ran into the Canadian women in the Leon Supermarket last night after a few days not seeing them---Jo and I were shopping for Dinner last night---came up with Muesli--a box---we both had 2 plates of it --about 80% of the packet so not too much to carry on. We were staying in a monastery and the Nuns---about 20 of them them invited us to a service---about 100 pilgrims turned up for 30 minutes before we hit the sack. Double bunks pushed together---so someone sleeping next to you--like in a double bed---a bit of a surreal experience---I hadnt met the guy next to me prior to getting into bed---and it seemed a bit weird sleeping about 6 inches away from someone I didnt know so I reached my hand across to him from my sleeping position and said ¨:I.m Chris: and He said Im Thomas--sounded like from Holland or Switzerland ---so we had a night together---havent seen him since. Walked 23 kms today-- Jo walked ahead and got into Mazarife an hour earlier than Me . I walked with Christine from Canada again and walking slower and by the end of the day conscious that my foot was saying You have walked far enough today. Were supposed to walk to Astorga tomorrow but I dont think my feet can carry me the 30 km to Astorga---so may have to break up the Trip---and Jo may go on---There is such a fine line between staying within your limits and pushing yourself too far---we face this decision most days--if you get it wrong you can pay the price for the rest of the camino---and we get reminded daily of those who have tried to push it too far. The place where we are staying has a BATH--such a luxery--especially for 6E a night---so Jo and I both made the most of it---our first for the camino and our aching muscles appreciated the attention. After bathing and washing sat around in the courtyard with Ellen from Holland---Going slower than us--started a week before and John from Ireland---from Waterford---his 1st day today---just has 2 weeks so decided to go from Leon to Santiago. Also ran into Dave from Canada from about 3 nights ago--the snorer---his wife has joined him in Leon and we are going to have dinner with them tonight

A better day

Have run into a couple of Irish guys the last couple of days--eddie Oakes from Dundork and Rob Mcgowan from Dublin---both having foot problems--blisters. Jo and I left Manzilla at 7.30 this morning after we had some of the All Bran Jo has been Lugging around with her for a few days--she (and I ) have been thwarted from using it by places that provide breakfast. Were eating that and prunes and dried figs to offset the cement white bread diet that we get 3 times a day---the least of our worries-for now. Was determined to go slow today-extra slow. My foot was repaired with 4 coatings of green Chinese linament-carried from a Chinese herballist in Haymarket--and a coating of vaseline this morning---and I didnt have the same problems--thanks for all your prayers---but I had the feeling that a few more kms today may have brought me undone again. Now in leon--less people staying in the Albergue tonight because the game between Man U and barcalona will last longer than when the doors of the albergue at 930pm. Not such a big issue for Jo and I. Ran into more Aussies today Kes and Claire--sisters from Cairns and Luke from Adelaide---Jo and I have the brother and sister category sewn up--the only pair on the camino I think. Also ran into les and Trudi and Tom again here after a week. Life is good --were having a ball. Theres nothing else like this--a delicate balance between physical and emotional and spiritual

Walking pace

Follow on---long day today--left st 7.20 and didnt get in till 2--but the most amazing thing was that Jo walked in about 90 SECONDS after me---I was thinking she would have been way ahead . Was really good to see her vagain--a big hug that we had survived our first seperation and Jo and I both shared in communal meals last night and met up with people we knew in seperate places

To Mansilla 3 days 80 kms

Have just had 30 minutes typing on my blog lost when my money ran out without warning so now a very edited version. Jo and I went seperate ways yesterday---she is going fantastic. My left foot is starting to hurt when walkingbut we have had 3 heavy days---little choice-looking forward to a lighter day tomorrow.Stopped when the pain started yesterday--I was on the road less travelled--no one for miles- but while i wasstopped Christine from Canada turned up and walked the last 6 Km with me--- a good distraction from my sore foot--it played up again today and I couldnt have gone much further than the 26 km I went today. With Dave from Canada last night-a snorer--got up 5 times to wake him or get him to turn over last night---He was good natured about it this morning--could only remember once

Terradillos 27kms=Total 413kms

We.re past the half way point =it seems to have gone so quickly= Have had a great 2 days. In Carrion we went out to dinner with Christine=Florida=sat down and Peter =walks in=first we had seen Peter for 15 days==he was in fine form. Went to mass then and at the end they asked all the pilgrims there to come up to the front==about 50 of us =and spent 30 minutes giving us a special Pilgrim blessing in about 6 languages==Peter did us proud for the english section. Then back to our Albergue run by 3 Augustine Nuns and They had a 30 minute ceremony for us too ==They have us each a paper star that they had personally coloured¿light to carry?and also gave us all a personal blessing=hands on our heads. Felt very blessed after all that. While we were at dinner, Chris waved at a woman looking through the window and she came and joined us=Eva==74 from Switzerland. She started the same day as us but her knees were playing up and she had decided to get a bus to Leon. She had trouble a few days before and an Aussie woman had carried her 12kg pack for her several Kms to the next village=carrying Evas pack in front of her.
Jo and I got away at 6.30 this morning==facing an 18km stretch to start=no villages=then at 10km mark someone had set up a caravan to sell tea coffee and food=we took the opportunity to rest. Caught up with Christine there and walked with her for an hour or two. Got to Terradillos at 1PM =delighted we got in so early after 27kms=but dead flat=so we moved slightly faster. Have a room with 3 NORMAL beds=not double bunks. Later in the afternoon peter walked in and is staying with us here. Have just had a wild storm with a lot of hail=thankful that we were not out in that. two different routes to go tomorrow=Jo and I thinking of going our different ways for a couple of days=stay tuned for developments

In Carrion

Jo and I got to Carrion today---a shortish day of 16Kms---but the next place was 18kms away--a step too far. ran into a Canadian woman last night. I said I was Chris from Australia--She said so you are the one who works in an office next to Peters wife !!!!!!!!! She had walked with him the day before-- I think he is in Carrion now but haven.t seen him. Walked with Christine From Florida for an hour this morning---her 2nd camino. Was raining this morning fior 2 hours but only lightly so the raingear kept it out.Previous night caught up with Katie and Marion from Canada again after a few days--hugs all around---had dinner with them at Itero and 2 Aussies from Kirribilli. This morning ran into Donald who grew up in Coonamble and knew our rellies there---Small world .Trying to stop talking about what is coming up and what I did last time here---its only taken me 2 weeks. I gave my watch to Jo at Sydney airport---but then started asking her the time about 15 times a day---but trying to stop that as well---I managed quite well not having a watch last time-. Were getting up about 6 each day getting away about 7 and getting in between 12 and 1 mostly

At Itero de la Vega--Day 17--350 KMS

Found a computer for the 2nd day in a row !!! but we,re staying in the smaller places across the Meseta so that may not continue. Last night we caught up with Les and Trudi and Tom from Port Macquarie---they had had a rest day in Burgos and then walked the 32 Kms that we had walked in 2 days, in one day. Trudi was sporting some large blisters. Today we,ve just seen them again and had a bite of lunch with them ---they were headed on a further 8 kms than the 22kms we did today. I finished with a lot more energy today---but have had a flareup of the inflammation in my right foot again---was off the anti-inflammatories for 2 days but will go back on them again---if anyone has some metaphysical data, am happy? to be hit between the eyes. Jo and I were both in tears last night over a lovely fish dinner---hard to explain---you had to be there---but they were good tears---we weren,t fighting. Came across 2 old Spanish villagers today in the middle of nowhere--at the end of a tiring stretch---the had lovely oranges and bananasso Jo got us one of each---How much---nothing!!---they had a basket if people wanted to donate something---so Jo did. Then a lady came and asked for a coca-cola---as if---but he had a tiny esky as well and pulled out a can of coke. We,re staying in a place with Katie and Mirian from Canada, a couple from Kirribilli who started 4 days after us--but they have caught a few buses and a Kiwi pair. Both well and fit and in high spirits

worn out

were 2 days out of Burgos===only did 13Kms yesterday to Rabe de la Calzados and Micheles place===you will remember her Renata=I found your note from 2 years ago ==and mine. She had given my feet a treatment when I was in a bad state on the last camino===we went back for a revisit==She still has lots of rules=we had to put all our bags inside large garbage bags before we could bring them in the house=no clothes on the bed=lecture on bedbugs==when we sat down for dinner and went to drink some wine she said==you will wait for me=and we did=while she served up all the plates and the gave us a speech about being on the camino while our hot and delicious meat and vegetable stew lay untouched in front of us. later when she went out of the room, a spanish girl asked why I had come back for a 2nd dose of this==I told them why which was then translated into spanish,french and german for the 8 of us on the table. Food was excellent and She kissed me again on both cheeks==very unshaved==and thanked me for having such faith in her to come back again.
Today weve come 19 kms==I wanted to go further but I,m so glad we didnt==feeling totally worn out=after a shower and the washing I lay down fopr 2 hours=now feeling slightly revived but still very weary=wearier than I think I should be==had to keep on saying to Jo today that I needed to take a rest==and we did===3 time of 10 to 15 minutes each. So many pilgrims walking ==about double last time==the on reason we are getting accomm is that I am buggered by midday and have to stop==every place we have been in becomes full very quickly==generally by 2 or 3. Weather has been perfect so far=cool in the mornings and no rain. Blessings to all you readers===can feel your energy urging us on

massage

I had an order in for a massage and the volunteer (Hungarian woman about30) was ready for me. What I didnt realise was that she was to give it to me on the floor beside her reception desk---I went and got my mattress---it barely fitted between her desk and the dining table where a curious diner was sitting. It was 10E for 20 minutes so decided to concentrate her on my biggest need--a sore right shoulder--and a spot about as big as a 50cent piece in particular---I told her about it after a couple of minutes but she had her routine and was VERY focussed on it. When I reminded her again after 15 minutes, she told me that my whole body needed to be in balance, in other words my sore spot was not going to get any more attention than any other spot.thanked her gracefully---Jo wanted a spot on her hip seen to but I felt I could do a better job with that so told her to save her 10 E. Caught up with 2 Canadian ladies yesterday---one retired Mirian and one about to Katie. They said they were both desperate for a conversation in English so we sat and chatted to them for a couple of hours . They were both in out room of 6 at Atapuerca---our last stop. We just ran into them again in Burgos--they were staying in a hotel for 40 E. Les and Trudi and Tom cooked A delicious Tortilla (just Les actually) for the 5 of us last night. They were also staying in a hotel here---Les had paid 80 E on his own when he was here 4 years ago and was going to stay at the same place again---Strangely? he is trying to stay with his wife and son at the same places ---the same albergues that he stayed in on his own 4 years ago---to each his on---I have doubled up on a few as well--repeating the good places but happy to change the ordinary ones.. Had a big feed after we settled in---we were both starving---but have been eating pretty well and were getting things for breakfast each day, the day before---didnt do this last time ---that may explain my weight loss last time.. Till next time

villafranca to Burgos 2 days 40 kms

We.ve slowed???? up again. We were looking to do 53kms in 2 days but decided to make it 3 days---which means tomorrow is a mere walk around the block at 13kms. Its good to get to a major city--I feel it marks our progress---Burgos, leon. astorga and Santiago---not that were looking ahead too much---each day is a reasonably hard slog. Have learned some valuable lessons from last time---like not going too far or too fast---travelling with Jo helps this process---we tend to go at the slowest persons pace---having said that our pace is near to identical---which is a good thing---we keep each other going. Took a wrong turn this morning--- I knew it was dodgy---the other way had a bigX on it which normally indicates the wrong way---but not this time---went about 1 Km out of our way but it meant we arrived in a small albergue in the centre of Burgos right on 12 which magically was the time they opened---and with only 18 beds you have to get in early. To be continued

Azofra to Villafranca montes de oca 51kms

we have stepped up the pace again after a few quiet days. 3 aussies from Port Macquarie---Les and Trudi and son Tom suggested that Redecilla was a good place to stay as last time Les was there in 2005 they put on a communal meal. Sorry to say things have changed since then---not only was there no communal meal but there were no meals at all and a couple of rounds of the small village suggested that there was no shop either. Finally we stumbled across it , the woman behind the bar had a little alcove next to the bar where she sold a few things from. So Jo and I got 6 eggs and a tomato---a real one (I.d forgotten what they tasted like)and some cheese and crusty bread---There seems to be no other kind in Spain---all french loaves which are converted into Bocadillas (bread rolls) . Anyway between us we did a lovely omlette and sat with the 3 aussies for an hour or so. Up at 545 this morning and rang Nige and Maz oh so briefly for about 2 minutes for about 6E for his birthday---got cut off twice and lost our money (memo to self---get a phone card) Jo and I walking on our own a lot today--much of the time not seeing anyone in front of us or behind us. Got into Villafranca 25kms about 130---we had had 2x 20 minute breaks- at the second one we both took our boots and sox to give our feet a chance to cool down. Jo has been happy with the top bunks and me with the bottom bunks---for the first time i.m on a top bunk-- I find it a bit more awkward?---you cant put things under your bed for instance. Once weve booked in and had our beds allocated by the person in charge we go into the same routine every day---wash sox and undies and shirt and hang them out to give them maximum time in the sun and have a shower and put on clean clothes which become tomorrows walking outfit. The sun doesnt set until 9 and the clothes are normally dry by then. The weather has been absolutely perfect for walking---almost. Yesterday it was quite cold---maybe 5C but I went out with shorts ,cotton shirt and light jacket and no gloves---Jo beside me was wrapped up to withstand Antarticia. I thought I.d warm up as I have every other day---but within about 10 minutes I was a big block of ice. Jo helpfully suggested I might want to put something warmer on so i stopped ---had to take EVERYTHING out of my backpack---the gloves were right at the bottom-- put everything back and did it all up and then discovered that I.d forgotton to leave out the leggings to zip onto my shorts---so unpacked everything again---put on gloves anfd lggings and extra t shirt and finally I was warm---I was glad I stopped ---it stayed cold for about 3 hours but a sunny day--Jo patiently waited for me

getting stronger

Jo and I and Roisin (from Dublin) had our meal out in Longrono, Bought some delicious cocoanut macaroons from a nearby market for our morning snacks. Got back at 9.30 and all the lights out in the dorm---so fumbling around with things left on the bed---best to get to bed by 9 if you want to see what you,re doing. Next morning our dormitory got up and going about 5.15--one or two people start to move and everyone thinks its time to get up---so I was ready to go about 6 and checked out Jos dorm and it was still dark and quiet. We were told not to get up till 6.30 but of course everybody ignores that. We got going at 6.45---my foot was improved but still limping a bit---but a lot less pain today. We went 20kms to ventosa---next place was a further 10kms--too far for us. Ventosa was delightful---a lovely welcome and a very well appointed place--good kitchen, nice outdoor space. Went to do my laundry---there were 2 women (european??) hard at work scrubbing things---I got some water for my basin, put in a capful of my conc. detergent and rubbed away at my sox and undies and shirt---took my time to make sure i did a good job-- but was still finished inside 3 minutes including wringing them dry before I hung them out--- the 2 women were still scrubbing away and I could tell by the way they looked at each other that they didn´t approve of my efficient washing style---or maybe it was that I got the best drying spots on the line. Finished reading ¨¨The last American Man¨¨ Elisabeth Gilbert (Eat, Pray LOve) and enjoyed it a lot 9/10---Jo is now reading and carrying it and she found a book by Ian McEwan that I.m carrying---a book is starting to become an essential item. Jo and I cooked ourselves a delicious dinner---pasta with ham and onions. Today we were faced with doing 16kms or 30 kms and again we decided we werent ready for a 30km day so we only walked 4 hours---seemed such a light day and we know we need to be doing more than 16km a day . Have now done 205kms in 10 days and both feeling good---not limping today and the foot is pretty good today-- staying at Azofra ---another lovely albergue---Jo and I have a double room 6E eachand facilities are good---kitchen and Internet. Just met Nick and Michelle from Sydney also staying here and they have a 14 month old daughter with them. Michelle is carrying the baby (11Kgs) and Nick is carrying all their gear---afraid to weigh it. There are also 2 girls from Adelaide staying here---A longer day tomorrow---Jo is yet to decide exactly how far---We.ve bought a packet of Chicken noodle soup for dinner after having a lovely 3 course meal in the local bar (10E)

yesterday

Went for a walk in the afternoon with Camille--a dutch guy and he Jo and I had a drink in the local bar. He mentioned Dinner and Jo and I said We were going to look at cooking something and were going to the shop. He came to and seemed to be buying a lot of stuff---pasta.onions sauce--and I thought he must have been buying for the 3 of us---but I neened to check--a difficult job---But asked are you getting food for the 3 of us---he wasn.t but said thats a good idea and bought a bit extra---then he did all the cooking and serving while Jo and I were hanging around like bad smells---so we decided to pay him for the cost of ALL the ingredients (6E) instead of sharing the cost. It 3was a delicious meal and Jo and I also did all the washing up. I was put in a room with 6 Finnish women and a Guy. Going to bed one of the women told me that they were all getting up at 5.15---she just wanted to warn me. What she didnt warn me about was the the guy was a champion snorer---perhaps not in world class ---I met HIM on the last canino---but this guy could have snored for Finland. Had a poor nights sleep what with the snoring and my inflamed foot. Decided to get up at 5.15 with the rest of them and wrote up my diary in the extra time I had waiting for Jo

difficult Day

Have a badly inflamed right foot (GOUT?) thought overnight I may have to catch a bus today. However it was a little better this morning and I hobbled 20 km to Longrono--- I think it is improving---caught up with Irish girl Roisin here--she went past us yesterday to do 31kms but today she did only 9--her foot is playing up !!! Jo and I and Roisin are about to go out to Dinner in Longrono

lorca to torres del rio

thank you top all for your support and comments---it means a lot to know that we are part of a much bigger picture. >Peter Mcg turned up in Lorca where we were staying-- still with spirits high but limping a bit from a strained tendon on his left ankle. jo and I left the next morning in the rain---our first chance to try out our raingear in not heavy but persistent rain---sad to say we were both quite wet within 10 min although we both found a couple of dry patches when the rain stopped after a couple of hours---Jo had a dry patch over her right breast and I had a dry patch over my navel---thank god for small mercies. We are now both praying for fine weather to santiago. Had a choice of going 18 or 30 kms yesterday and sensibly decided to go only 18---to Villamayor de Monjardin-- where we had a group meal at night ---just wonderful and also our best breakfast to date.(apart from the scrambled eggs) Got on well with a Dutch guy on our table Camille and An Irish girl Roisin. Today had a similar choice 19 or 31 KMS and again we only went 19---dont feel like werte ready for more than 25or26 at the moment . Jo and I have been pretty much the only ones on the road for the last 2 days ---have hardly seen another soul. Both enjoying the adventure and meeting people at the algergues. Tonight Camille is going to cook up a tuna pasta for the 3 of us---split the cost of the ingredients

Zubiri to Lorca---3 days --64 kms

We were exhausted in Zubiri--even worse than the first day. Out for a meal--3 courses plus wine and bread for 11E ($22) and the first corrse was a huge spag bol---enough for 3 people---Jo left half of hers but I was better trained and cleaned it all up as well as the huge second course and sweets. We had only just ordered when Peter McG walked in so he joined us for dinner as well. He seemed to be having the time of his life---but we haven´t seen him since then. We slept so, so soundly in our lovely double bedwith real sheets. We went shopping and treated ourselves to scrambled eggs for breakfast before we set off the next day for Pamplona---felt very refreshed and much more energy today. Stayed at a lovely German run albergue in Pamplona. Had a look around town and Cathedral. Yesterday was a more difficult days walk---climbing a big hill outside Pamplona and then a steep descent the other side. I decided to take a detour to Eunate--only 2.5KM extra but it was a lot at the end of a long day. It was a tiny 1000year old church-- a bus group had just left so I had it to myself and music(Gregorian Chant?) was softly playing and still I wasn´t moved---What was wrong with me---why had I come this extra Journey in the hot sun-- I knew there must be a reason----but I still haven´t found it ---though it may have been to give Jo some time on her own---she had booked both of us into an albergue in Obanos. Felt quite worn out again so talked to Jo about having a shorter day today--took our time and got here about 12.30 and booked in a lovely albergue--4 double bunks in our room. Minor physical irritations but nothing major---and starting to recognise faces and introduce ourselves.

WE´RE AT ZUBIRI.THE TRIP OVER IS A BIT OF A BLUR---WE GOT 4 HOURS SLEEP BETWEEN US BEFORE GETTING TO ST JEAN--CONNECTIONS WENT WELL. DESPITE OUR TIREDNESS, WE WERE KEEN TO GET GOING BUT THE PLACES TO STAY ON THE MOUNTAIN WERE BOOKED OUT----IT WAS JUST AS WELL---WE WERE BOTH DEAD BEAT . WE WERE TO MEET PETER BUT HE WASN´T THERE--LATER WE RAN INTO HIM---HE´D MISSED HIS FLIGHT FROM PARIS. HE HAD TO WAIT FOR THE POST OFFICE SO WE DIDN´T WALK WITH HIM THE NEXT DAY. JO AND I HAD OUR FIRST BIG DISAGREEMENT---I WANTED TO GO OVER THE MOUNTAIN 1500M QUITE DIFFICULT---JO WANTED TO GO AROUND 1050M--MUCH EASIER (but still hard). I had a sleepless night---woke at 12 and thought it was almost 6 so stayed awake for the next 6 hours trying to work out a way to manipulate Jo into getting what I wanted---after all this trip is all about me. About 4am I remembered a line from a camino prayer that I say every day--about Lord help me let go control of what happens---and I let go---only took me 4 hours in the middle of the night to get there. Next morning we headed off from St Jean about 7.15 intending to stay at Valcarlos---halfway around the mountain---about 12 km---we stopped halfway and had a coffee and Jo said she was feeling go good she wanted to go the whole way to Roncesvalles---I did tell her it was the hardest half by far but I couldn´t afford any more sleepless nights so didn´t say any more´.It was a very challenging long day but we got there about 4---Jo was delighted and not feeling any pain at all. And my decision to let go was vindicated as pilgrims came in from OVER the mountain experiencing severe cold and slush and NO views. Booked into the alberque --120 beds and the place-room was full. Got away this morning at 7---all the lights came on at 6---I slept much better. Zubiri is 22kms from Roncesvalles---no other options on the way ---but we were totally exhausted by the time we arrived here at 1.30pm---and everything was booked out--then we remembered a Pension on the way into town so stumbled back out there. It is 6km to the next town but no way we could have got there except in a taxi. Anyway he had a room ---we were so relieved we didn´t quibble that there was only a double bed in the room. We´re both walking around like shearers after a long day but we are optimistic that our legs will heal overnight and we will be able to walk again---hopefully to Pamplona. Sorry about the delay---this is the first working internet we´ve found.

on our way(almost)

A couple of hours before we head off to the airport---a cold is dampening my excitement a bit but also very much looking forward to some time out from work and the world. Jo is a very calm presence to be around---it will be good to travel with her

I am heading off AGAIN to walk the Camino on 3rd May, 2009. This time I am delighted to be going with my sister Joanne ( www.joonthecamino.blogspot.com)---Both of us have been doing a fair amount of walking to get fit. Work has been quite stressful in recent months and I'm looking forward to having 8 weeks off---7 of them in Spain. We arrive in Paris on the morning of 4th May and are getting a train down to St Jean Pied de Port that day arriving at 4.30 pm. Not sure yet---depending on the weather and whether we are on time---if we will set off that afternoon or start the next morning.