Leon

At Mansilla overnight and had dinner with Vicky and Chris from Brisbane and Sylvia an author from Rhode Island who is thinking about writing a novel based on characters on the Camino. Have already nominated my character as the hero in the story but Sylvia seemed dubious about this and may need more convincing---or else more evidence of my hero status.It fits well with my enlightened status I think.Anyway, the discussion over dinner was whether to walk into Leon or catch a cab(20kms from Mansilla). In Brierleys book he advocates catching a bus into Leon and then another bus when you are leaving and because his book is the "bible" and he is God, his word is very influential,especially as he was saying that people who insist on walking May have issues with the size of their ego.this was enough to convince everyone at the table to catch a cab and have a days rest---everyone that is except me---who has almost no ego issues.I thought I could walk as a representative of our group but I didn't tell them as I want to be an unsung hero---not one who big notes himself.So set the alarm for 10 to 6 as normal and when it went off I got ready to walk the last 20 kms. Then Anne discovered that the alarm had malfunctioned and it wasn't 10 to 6 but only 4.30am. By this time I was dressed and wide awake and ready to go. So I left at 10 to 5, a full three and a half hours before sunrise.Pretty crazy really but the benefit was getting almost 2 full days off in Leon---and more time to stay at the Parador, the 5 star hotel in Leon courtesy of an anonymous benefactor. (Thanks Phil).I found walking in the dark for a couple of hours a pretty rich experience---thought it wasn't completely dark as I was always walking towards the lights of Leon.However I had a long wait to get a coffee and a slice of tortilla---it was 8.30 before I found a cafe open about 4 kms from the city centre. Then I got lost in the city for 30-40 minutes before getting to the hotel 5 minutes after Anne arrived in a cab from Mansilla at 10.Our room is huge---big enough for about 10 bunk beds and has a bath so had a blissful half hour soaking my weary limbs in the bath. Having a farewell dinner tonight with Vicky,Chris and Sylvia as they are walking on tomorrow(or taking the bus?) while Anne and I have a rest day in Leon.

Mansilla

Had a lovely dinner last night with Vicky and Chris (bad feet--catching a cab today) from Brisbane, Phillipa and Judith from the UK and Sylvia from the US. We all seem to be travelling much the same pace, though the UK girls are going home tomorrow and coming back in spring to complete it. We set off this morning under the stars again. We are coming to love this first hour of each day before the sun comes up and it seems to extend the distance we can comfortably do in a day to around 20 kms. Though having said that I ran out of steam today at about the 17 km mark of a 19 km trek. Anne still had energy up front and did a good job dragging me along. We searched for about 25 minutes for the place we were staying and eventually discovered, mainly through sign language that the place we had booked had changed its name and was there right in front of us the whole time. We had a 13 km stretch today but were rewarded at the end of it by a wonderful tortilla, a sort of omlette, filled with tomato and lettuce and chorizo and other things I was too busy to notice as I wolfed it down accompanied by a couple of coffees.

Choices

We had to makes one of the occasional choices that you get on the Camino. After an hours walking out of Sahagun the road split for the next 34 kms. The recommended way according to the " bible"(John Brierleys guide book---it IS the best ---and 90% of pilgrims have it) involves a more scenic route but a stretch of 25kms without any villages or bars.The other option---walking alongside a road for 34 kms has a longest stretch of only 13kms between villages. As we rely on the stops so much to sustain us and give us encouragement we chose the less scenic route with more villages. It WAS pretty boring but the walking was flat and the sky overcast but not raining. We have been so lucky with the weather. We are now in day 24 and have had only 20 minutes of light rain in all that time.just been down for lunch and there were three different tables which had people at them we had made friends with over the last couple of weeks. The second half of the Camino is good for developing friendships. The people we get on with have crossed our paths a few times now and we get on well with them--Sylvia and Vicky And Philliipa and Judith and Caroline and Jill. We will meet some of them later for drinks and dinner. Discovered Baileys again last night. Asked for a Baileys and got a large brandy balloon with 4-5 nips of Baileys in it with ice---and it cost 5 euros for 2 of them($7.50)We had 2 each and rolled home but will be sure to repeat the experience. We are both still injury free and still talking to each other so all is well.

Day 23

Started the day with the best breakfast we have had on the Camino. Buffet style it had eggs all ways and bacon and cheese and various meats and cereal and fruit. We couldn't resist it---but my overeating probably contributed to my low energy for the first leg of 6 kms. We started to go better after that and had more villages that we passed through today. We stopped 4 times today---10-20 minutes each time and that helped us get into Sahagun at 2.30. Staying in a Benedictine monastery and we may not be back. We were delighted to find a bath but they don't supply bath plugs and the laundry area has signs up forbidding you to hang any wet clothes out to dry. Still it's a comfortable bed and the shower is hot and those things are always appreciated on the Camino. Had dinner last night with Peter from Nottinghamshire in the UK. He is on day 71. No, he is not a lot slower---in fact he does about 30 kms a day. He has walked from his home in England (thought he got a boat across the Channel--I thought that was cheating a bit) and has so far clocked up 2200 kms. What some people will do for a good Camino story.

Milestones

We did the longest stretch on the Camino today---17 kms without any villages or bars or water. First we had 6 kms into Carrion---everything went perfectly for us. We found a bar open with a wonderful just cooked tuna tortilla and then found a shop to stock up on fruit,nuts and chocolate for the long stretch.We stopped every 90 minutes or so and took our boots off to cool our feet.this worked well for us and Anne's energy was great---mine was good till the 20 km mark---a big improvement on recent days---but still 3 km short of our goal---so dragging my feet a bit at the end---but so good to get there and a great bar where we had some great food and a beer for lunch. Also caught up with a lot of people we have been travelling with and meeting some new ones We have now reached the half-way mark today! Yeah!!! Only 400 km to go

A beautiful day in Spain

We walked out the door this morning at 7 as usual--pitch dark and we saw this blaze of light shoot acros the sky--a great start to the day. About an hour and a half to Fromista where we found an open bar and had coffee and tortilla.then an hour to another village and another bar and shoes and sox off to let the feet cool down.a lot of people seem to be getting laid up with foot injuries---blisters, infected blisters requiring hospitalisation, shin splints requiring 3-10 days rest. Maybe our daily routine of massaging the feet twice a day and our legs once a day is paying dividends. The people with shin splints said they thought they were trying to go too fast and too far in one day. Today was better. More stops made a difference I think. We are both loving the Meseta. Stayed at Boadilla last night where Eduardo has been charming the ladies for years---showing his age a bit but still as charming as ever. About 100 of us had a communal meal in 2 rooms---turreens of Castellian soup and a white bean soup followed by meatballs and salad and ice cream for dessert--and red wine of course. Surrounded by Pilgrims from US, Columbia, Korea, Japan, Germany and Spain---just on our end of the table--a good buzz.The days are getting cooler---wore gloves, beanie and long trousers for the first time this morning--- great walking weather.

What am I doing here?

Went from Castrojeriz to Boadilla today via Itero where we had breakfast after 11 kms. Felt good up to then---and the breakfasts have been great---all the better probably for coming at the end of a morning walk of 6-12 kms. This morning was no different. Had 2 cups of coffee and a tortilla sandwich with fresh crusty bread---delicious. I was good for a km after that and then started to wonder why I was putting myself through this. What am I doing to myself? I can't imagine repeating a day like today(perfect weather,road flat) when I get home, let alone stringing 44 such days together. Yesterday I was good for 18kms---today it was 12kms. At this rate I could be hitching a ride before long.anne by way of contrast seems to be getting better and better as the days go on. We are promising ourselves a day off in Leon in a weeks time in a fancy hotel---looking forward to that.

The Way

We stayed last night at Hornillos. Our host was Samuel and he had a poster from the film "The Way" on his wall, impressively signed by both Martin Sheen and Emelio Estevez (his son---both in life and in the film). I asked how he came to be connected to the film and he said the Martin Sheen had walked the Camino 13 years ago with Emilio's son (his grandson)and they had stayed at Hornillos with Samuels mother. The grandson fell in love with Samuels sister and subsequently married her. They lived 7 years in Spain and now live in LA. Part of the film was made at Samuels mothers place and she has a small part of the film. I almost feel that I'm part of the film story myself now. Today we walked to Castrojeriz and have a lovely room here looking out over the countryside. The tiredness I felt yesterday seems to come every day about the 18 km mark. Thankfully we are not walking much further than that each day.

Mondayitis

Got a good start this morning out of Burgos---caught up withAlessandro on the way--suffering from a bad ankle and only going 13 kms today. We had a lovely bread roll and coffee for breakfast at 10am after walking 11 kms-- then for some reason(just walked 250kms,old age?) just lost energy and struggled for the last 8 kms. Was delighted though with our accommodation--a room in the attic of a house with lovely double bed and bathroom attached. Anne is doing a great job booking our accommodation. Have been contemplating Mums comment about getting back before she dies. Please tell her to not even THINK about dropping off the perch while we are doing the Camino. Have decided it would be just too disruptive to our journey. Some of these villages don't even have cars let alone planes and trains so getting back for a funeral would be just too difficult. We would just have to get the family to put you on ice till we got back from our trip---maybe set you up with a pillow in the deep freeze in the pantry. In short, don't go while we are away.

Solo

Anne and I parted ways yesterday---she went off to get a bus to Burgos and I took off from Villafranka in the dark---for the first hour to St Juan--12 Kms away. It was a delightful walk through thick forest for about 3 hours. After an hour I caught up with Alessandro from Florence in Italy (27) and we had a great yarn for a couple of hours on the meaning of life and the Camino. He had been laid up for 3 days with a crook knee until a Norwegian woman asked him if she could do a healing on it. He agreed but said he didn,t believe in such things but within an hour his knee was 100% again and he was able to continue his walk. He said the 3 day lay up was the best thing that could have happened to him and he was now very much looking forward to the rest of his journey. I got to Atapuerca about 11.30am having done 18kms in 5 hours but still feeling full of energy so kept on going. A very rocky uphill climb slowed me down and a difficult descent had me looking for somewhere to stay and about 3 kms further on I dragged my feet into a little village Cardenuela and hoped they had a bed for me. I ended up the only person in a 4 bed room with my own bathroom. On a crowded Camino this is like gold---like being the only one in a cinema or the only one on a beautiful beach---you know life is smiling on you when this happens. All this for 8E---about $12. For another 8E, they served up a lovely 3 course meal with wine. Got going again at 7 AM this morning and after an hours walking caught up with Alessandro again---what a delight---so we walked into Burgos together. He was hungry so I talked to him about the concept of manifesting---and how Jo and I had manifested a bar in the middle of nowhere one day. Our prospects seemed just as bleak in the middle of an industrial area but within 15 minutes a bar had showed up and Alessandro was marvelling at his new-found powers---there will be no stopping him now. A couple of locals with no English helped me find the hotel where Anne was staying and had a wonderful bath---definately in the top 5 of all time--- before we went out and had a late brunch. All is well with the world at the moment.

Another 20 kms

Up at 6 and left at 7.30 am---just light enough to see yellow arrows--- though when we stay in a larger town there is a whole stream of people leaving town. We now seem to besettled on doing 18-20 kms a day average-- and with a limit of 25 kms. We start off together but often one of us will get ahead--I'll get a burst of energy or else I,ll go off for a peeand Anne will be 150 m up the road. It seems to be easier to strike up a conversation when we are walking separately. Today Anne met up with Tony and Odette from Napier NZ  and then having made contact, Tony drpped back and talked to me about footy while the girls were chatting. Most walking together lasts till we reach the next bar. Found a lovely place tonight 1 km off the track-- a house with about 4 double rooms and mother and daudhter , both Ana, are very friendly and welcoming---looking forward to their dinner!!!!

An easier day

We struck another fiesta in najera with an all night concert about 100 metres down the street. Anne got bored with it, put in earplugs and dropped off to sleep . I saw an opportunity to study Spanish culture and decided to listen to all 6 hours of it till 2 am. Despite that, felt good today and we had towns at the 6 km and 15 km marks where we stopped and had a rest and a cafe con leche ( milk coffee). We left at 710 and got in at 1.30 pm to santo Domingo. Staying with the Cistersian Nuns here--- have a lovely double room with our own bathroom for E58. Energy levels for both os us is good today . 73 kms to Burgos from here--- our guide suggests we take 3 days to get there. We have decided to take 4 days and give ourselves an easier time.

An easy day!!!!!

We walked ONLY 17 kms today and told ourselves it was going to be aan easy day--- weslept in till 6 and didn't leave till 7.15---and we took it easier---but by the time we sstaggered into Najera we were both completely spent. Collapsed into a chair ina cafe and ordered a coffee and some lovely tapas, but nothing seemed to di spel the fatigue. However a hot shower and a foot massage from Anne has started to rejuvenate me

BeAutiful morning

We left Viana this morning at 6.30 am under a starlit sky with a half moon not adding anylight. A bit cooler but I have on my daily uniform---my one short sleeve summer shirt and shorts. Was delightful walking in the dark with an occasional torch beam to check for arrows at intersections. Had our first rain coming into Logrono but didnt last long and had a fabulous breakfast in a little cafe opposite the cathedral. Yhen onto Navarette by 130 pm. In the habit after washing clothes and showering a nd. Resting of going to the town square and meeting up with people we have met along the way---Kate and Erin from Melbourne, vikki and Chris for Brisbane, Finola from Hungary, jackie and jill from UK. Each day you meet 3 or 4 more and lose touch with a couple. Both still travelling well, injury free

Viana

When we walked into the main street here , the street was full of people---very unusual for a Spanish town-- and therewas a procession coming towards us---when the streets are only 12 feet wide it can be a problem---but we squashed ourselves into the wall while Anne recorded it all on video. the hotel receptionist told us it was the towns annual festival---and they were about to have a running of the bulls down the main street---which was right below our first floor window. What fun---however the local youths/prospestive bullfighters were pretty tentative at taking the bulls on---though we saw one brave lad make it to the end of the street being chased by the bulls.
We got a room without a bath to save money---but got a bath anyway---after a week of walking in the hot sun it was heaven!!!! A great place to recuperate for a few hours.Our hats off to you William and Coralie who have just completed the Camino---you continue to inspire us

A little bit of luxury along the way

Los Arcos to Viana is only 20 kms but felt more than that today. We left at 7 in the dark and at  one stage were looking for arrows with torches. Passed through 2 villages but bars not open so facing the whole distance without a break or a bar.  Then we came across a group of volunteers who had set up a shaded area and were giving stuff away----cold drinks, fruit, home made bread and jam, bowls of nuts on the tables. You could make a donation if you wanted but it wasnt necessary. How good is that. The only place we could book here was a 4 star hotel--- the  sacrifices we have to make!!!

Did 20 kms today into Los Arcos----and we have the luxury of a double room--- no sheets or blankets but we are feeling blessed indeed. And settled in by 2pm---the heat starts about 11. Had a 12 km stretch today but an enterprising couple had set up a caravan half-way and was selling cold beer, fresh cold orange juice, ice- creams and a variety of food. He had also set up some shaded areas with chairs. They were doing very well150 kms already gone by and only 650 to go. Making lots of connections with americans, canadians, poms, germans and aussies and a few assorted other nationalities--- one of the best aspects of the camino. Feeling stronger every day, Anne too and having a lot of fun.

message from Chris

We have just done 24Km into Estella and staying at a hotel after albergues for the last 3 nights. Very hot today---about 30 degrees. Thousands of people on the road and the motivation for some of them is definately suspect---not all of them looking for enlightenment like me. Perhaps there should be a little test in the beginning to get rid of some of the rabble and just leave the camino to people like me who are serious about our quest.
for those Chris promised to put on Annes blog address....
www.anneoncamino.wordpress.com
(Chris having trouble to access his blog at the moment)

The spiritual quest

At Zabaldika breakfast was basic and only one French loaf between 18 people---- it was a struggle just to get a slice, let alone two or three. When the scramble was over and all the greedy people had left, including me, the hospitalero brought in a FRESH loaf for the people who missed out in the rush. I felt I couldnt really go back in but overcame my misgivings and went again----a bit sheepish this time. Later that day we got to Pamplona and were lucky enough to get into a German place Paderborn, where I have stayed before. We asked for bottom bunks and were given them but half an hour later a woman comes into our room with 4 bunks with a huge bandage around her knee and wanting a bottom bunk. My knee guard looked puny beside her bandage AND a letter fromher doctor!!! What to do!!! Give it to her with bad grace and plan revenge---snoring,getting up early etc: so its very difficult getting to enlightenment when i, m being starved and others are trying to prevent me getting a good nights sleep.

Tough going

I wish somebody had reminded me how physically hard this is. I,m starting to think I must have aged since last time. Have gone from 4.5 kms an hour to 3!!! They have changed the whole camino it seems--- made the uphills steeper and the downhills more slippery so you have to crawl down an inch at a time using the poles to balance--- and they have lenghtened the distances between towns. I, m planning a letter of complaint but not sure who to send it to.

Finally contact

Trying to do this on annes phone got a charger in pamplona my phone is locked and internets have disappearedand have been replaced by new things called eyephones silly name went over the top first day started at 8 and finished at 7 pm completely done in.Missed the mass and collapsed into bed in the dorm with 110 snorers. Very stiff andsore the next day and only went to Viscarret where Jo and I saw a mob of sheep go through town. Only 11 kms. Followed by 14 tozubiri and 14 to zabaldika --- a beautiful place attached to the church of St Stephen with a gathering where we talked about why we were doing the camino. That was great

On my way again

I never thought I'd be doing this for a third time---but here I am---travelling with Anne who has not done it before but has been madly swimming and cycling and walking and is much fitter than I.
We are leaving Sydney tomorrow---Singapore Air to Paris, then fly to Biarritz, then train to St Jean. We will have a night there before setting off on Friday morning---will go over the mountain if possible. we have both decided to get our bags carried on the first day.