day29 30

i ended up the only person at Portela Valcarce--STILL NO APPETITE--But order dinner anyway---get about one third thru it and feel sick--have a fever again--this time i..m freezing cold--take another 2 disprin and go to bed again at 7 and slowly warm up. Its great being the only person in the room---you can turn on the light when you get up--i..m used to doing all my preparations in the dark. FEELING BETTER THE NEXT DAY--CLimb another mountain--it rises 2000 feet in 7 km--quite challenging on rocky mountain paths but my legs seem better able to cope now---get to the top at 11 (O´´Cebriero) and push on another 12 kms---27 in total and find another quiet place to stay atFonfria where i find a single bed---on ny bed for hours in the arvo resting my feet. Dinner at 8 is communal---decide its too late for me--and then change my mind---wonderful dinner---rich hot vegetable soup---then trays of meat and potatoes--as much as you want---then sweets--and as much wine as you want---all for $14---my first meal in 3 days. Today was a beautiful days walking--up high on mountains and fantastic landscapes every minute--in the valleys below you can see fields and villages and monasterys---prettier than a painting---pushed it today again 27 kms---if i average 24 km a day i.ll finish on wednesday--but nothing is certain as ive discovered---walked with some irish girls today for 40 mins--friends of Dominic--also ran into Granya and Connie. Found a lovely place in Sarria tonight for 6e and there was a bath---I was in it so quickly---and later noticed a sign that said it was for the disabled---but figured i was disabled enough to qualify--it seems like i.m nearly there---but i have to keep remembering i still have to walk another 120kms

day 26-28

Left Rabanal early---got to the high point of the camino--where there is a place to leave something on a monument--left a photo of an angel on the pole facing all the pilgrims---was determined to have another quiet day so stopped about 130 atRiego de Ambros---A very quiet village--no other english speakers--no internet--so had to rest which was good---then at 5pm Helene walks in to stay the night--glad to see someone I can chat to, have dinner with.Next day we decide to walk together for a while at a pace that suits us both---more walking thru the mountains covered with a purple bush as far as the eye can see--we are both off colour--Helene has a migraine and I feel Queasy And dont feel like eating--we get lost coming out of Ponferrada and instead of parks and quiet suburbs we are walking on the equivalent of Parramatta road for about 12 kms in very hot weather--no intermediate stops--we have to go 30 kms to find a place to stay--I just collapsed onto the bed when I got there about 530---10 hour day---After 30 minutes I go and showerBut that takes my last remaining energy--the bar is 300-400m away---no way I can get there--I have an orange and a few almonds I..m carrying--I..m also burning up --have a high fever---have a couple of disprin and am in bed at 630 (sunset about 9)--I sleep OK and the fever goes but have gastric---the joys of the camino !!!!--Helene migraine is worse and she cant move---I get going about 730--feeling quite weak--with very little food yesterday---after 2 hours find a cafe open--the best they can offer is dry toast and cheese--so i take it. A difficult day---felt like I was dragging my feet all day---stop at 2 at la Portela de Valcarce--so far have a room for 4 to myself---and feeling like Im getting stronger---I need to be --biggest climb of Camino tomorrow---Great to make contact with Erin for her birthday---and Phil and Flis --Love to you all

day 23--25

Last i left you I was in Mazarife--Jethro invited me to the pub for one beer---4 hours later I got back to my Albergue after a few drinks and a visit to the supermarket and a communal spag bol for 10--very nice. Away at 645 next morning--Jethro was 5 min behind--could see him behind me for ages--then he disappeared---caught up later and said 3km out he remembered he left his MP3 behind---so did an extra 6kms. Went into the 1st bar I found after 3 hours--was only one there--then 2 minutes later Marie walks in---Amazing--I had wanted to say goodbye as it was her last day walking but hadnt seen her for 3 days. Then in this bar, they had a comments book for customers--have never seen that before---idly looking thru it came across a message FOR ME from Renata ¨¨hello to Chris if you see this¨¨ brought me undone once again at the miracle of connection across 10 days. Walked with Marie a couple of hours---Faced with doing 19kms or 30 kms and it was a good walking day --cool and pretty flat---felt good at 19kms but by 25kms the bottom of my feet felt like mush--nothing to do but push on one step at a time---fearing some drastic consequences--but got to Astorga with breaking down and Promised myself a shorter next day if I could still walk. Had a flash dinner at the Hotel Gaudi with Marie,Granya; dominic and 2 Finnish girls--All for 10E--a special for Pilgrims. This morning was delighted to find I could still walk --made lots of connections along the way including Anne- Marie--a German lady and Wolfgang Again and Danielle from Toulouse. The strangest was Dimitri from USA who was going the other way--and trying to do it with no money--relying on gifts of food and accommodation---stopped and chatted to him about the spiritual malaise in the world for 30 minutes and moved on. I gave him an orange I had to help him out. Stopped at next bar--Granya and Finnish girls there---Then Anne Marie turned up and told us of a man going the other way who stopped her and shared an orange with her--gave us a laugh. Staying at Rabanal for the night---Met the Spanish man for the TENTH time today---but also got an explanation--two women hes with walk the same way as us--he drives 25kms and walks back to meet them --and then turns around-and walks with them to the car..--mystery solved---a beautiful spring day today---snow covered mountains in view and beautiful wild flowers--fields of white and yellow daisys intersperced with rich red poppies---glorious.

back to reality

Yesterday wandering around Leon, Igot an instantaneous broken toe on my left foot---could hardly walk on it--I massaged it last night and hoped it would improve. Its things like this that stop you making plans or predictionsor knowing for certain you will get thru the day. Got away early this morning and toe was improved--in a dorm with 70 people in double bunks pushed next to each other--i had the next guys feet in my face---but i got lost coming out of the city--crossed the wrong bridge. Finally a council worker driving a water cart, washing the streets, gestured to me from his cabin and indicated the different direction i should go--i tentatively set off in that direction only to find him pacing me in his truck---he stayed with me for about 200 m until we got to a large roundabout and he made sure i took the right road leading off it---the kindness of strangers !!!!!!!! met Wolfgang on the way--from Germany---doing his 1st day !!!--doing a 12 day camino !! My feet stayed good today--got to Mazarife 23kms--in the last 2 kms Kelly caught up to me-and we walked together into town--she was pushing on a further 14kms. Then on the edge of town we ran into Jethro--and hes staying in the same Albergue--reminds me of Carl--lots of energy and enthusiasm---he started a week after me in Pamplona---Have another single room !!!! and a bath all for 5E Love to you all

back to reality

Confession Time

Its time to finally fess up---I´´m not on the Camino at all--When I was in Paris I heard there was cold and rain predicted for the South of France---and I saw the Cannes Film Festival was about to start so I got a train there instead--I thought that the Camino will always be there but the 2007 Film Festival is a one off--and I will stay warm and dry--which I have.I knew you were all supporting me to do the Camino and I felt I couldnt let you down so in between movies I´´d look at the weather pattern and make up a days adventure on the Camino--its tested my creative skills--which is a plus--and I´´ve met a couple of people who have walked the Camino who spoke highly of it --so I still want to do it some day. So sorry to let you all down, hope youll forgive me--have to go now--theres another movie about to start.

leon

got away at 7 today--perfect weather--quite cool and not raining---coming into big cities doesnt compare with travelling through the beautiful countryside---but my feet held up today and staying in an old monastery in the heart of the city--25km today---474 down--not that im counting---ran into kelly again at the albergue---and frank--hes still alive---he´d heard I´´d caught a bus !!!!! not yet i said--and another young aussie Jethro from Cairns--saw Helene this morning--shes taking a day off here tomorrow--briefly appealing but i´´m inclined to push on. Leon Cathedral has the most beautiful stained glass windows i´´ve seen anywhere. A bonus at the albergue---they washed and dried nearly all my clothes for 6E---$10---I was beginning to be a bit on the nose--hard to get things dry in overcast and rainy weather

the meseta

We´re crossing the Meseta---a high plain--about 800m high--a steep climb to get onto it a few days ago. A lot of people take the bus for this section because they see it as boring and featureless and long stretches without water--so you have to carry extra---I carry 1.2 litres all the time--fill up wherever i can. For me the whole landscape is beautiful---so, so green and so many different wildflowers and no hills--and for the last couple of days very overcast and not raining--perfect for walking. A lovely couple of things yesterday---a local man pulled up in his car and gave me a wrapped lolly and a buen camino---and about an hour into yesterdays walk beside the path was a table in the middle of a field under a tree with lots of goodies and a sign for pilgrims to help themselves---tea,coffee,packets of soup,muesli bars oranges, pears, vegetables,. There was also a large thermos of boiling hot water---no one in sight for miles--there was also a donation box if you wanted to donate something,. Yesterday was the coldest morning so far---about 2C---so I helped myself to a hot soup and a muesli bar--another miracle of the camino !!!!!! Got as far as Bercianos yesterday---27kms--a very good day---a communal meal last night--Marie and Helene still around and also met Kelly from Bathurst---doing 40km a day so dont expect to see her again---Carol from Canada and Connie from Germany. Never saw Frank again. After dinner communal prayers in 6 languages. Today went well till 19km mark---was intending to go 27 again but my ankle suddenly gave way on me and limped very slowly the last 2 Km intoReliegos---was hoping to get to Leon tomorrow--but its still 25 km away so Ill see how I go.